Drilled Tank/sump - What Am I Missing?

[Todd]

I got this tank from a guy (who got it from a guy) and it came with all kinds of tubes and PVC pipes that I am trying to reassemble into a working setup. I believe the tank previously was a saltwater, but I am looking to use as a freshwater.


Its a 125 gallon tank and a 60 gallon used a sump. Its drilled, 4 holes bottom corner.
The larger holes are cut to for 2.5" inch PVC and the other 2 fit 1.25" tubing.
I understand how an overflow system works (from reading online) but I dont get why there are 4 drill holes, as opposed to 2.

I have pictures of how I received the parts and how I pieced them together - I think im almost there but not sure what Im missing or if I did it right.

What I don't get is, one of the PVC tubes is actually higher than the tank and has a hook on it (there is also a drill hole on the top of the hooked piece). I have no idea what this piece is for.
I assume the shorter piece PVC is the actual drain.

The two smaller holes, I assumer are both returns, the setup came with one sump pump - so I either need to split the return between those 2 smaller holes or I need to get an additional sump.

Also, I am not sure why there is a T attachment on the one clear tubes - is it possible I attach that to the sump output and then use that tube to feed the two returns?

 

[Matt1997]

Looks fine to me. The tank has 2 overflows and 2 returns. The one pipe (the U) is a durso stand pipe. Very quiet setup.the grey pipes with the larger diameter tubes are both the intakes. They drain into the sump together. To run two returns you will have to T it off. The white tube is the return and I believe the green tube may be as well. Personally I would change the return leave the overflow. To make the return I would have the pump go through one tube then T off before going into the drill holes. Remove the ball valve from the return. Never run a ball valve on the return pump back pressure kills the pump faster. The pictures show it well. The return is the white pipe with the ball valve and the green tube. Connects to the T. The tubes connect to the bottom of the bulkheads then up through the return pipes in the overflow. The good news is this is an overflow system so you can’t really flood the sump or the tank. Get a measurement on the intake holes again. No way those are 2” drains.

 

[EZMac]

Hi Todd, You have lots of options with this tank.
If your sure you want to go freshwater you could—
: seal the holes and run an external canister filter (fluval fx6 is my pref).

Leave the drain holes and run your own plumbing to a canister filter.

Keep the plumbing and sump and try different plumbing methods: have your drains join together with a valve to control drain flow. You can seperate them as well and run to different spots in the sump.
You could also seal one side and just have one side do your drain and return.
Maybe keep the other side with an open drain just as an overflow backup.

Lots of options
Maybe start with your equipment also. Figure out how much flow you need/want and go from there.
Cheers keep posting updates.

 

[Todd]

Thanks for the responses - been a huge help. I've seen the light now and (mostly) understand the setup.

I flipped 2 tubes I had sticking out the bottom, because I now see they feed the return. ( I just need to figure out a way to attached them - the tubes are kind of stiff, think I need new ones).
Flipping the tubes showed me exactly how the sump and the T in the tube feeds both returns.

Some things I wanted to know:
- not sure why the Durso is 2 inches higher than the other drain. Seems to me like the shorter tube would be doing all the draining, unless the water is flowing fast enough to reach the height of the Durso
- Am I able to get these tubes at a hardware store, like home depot (they are pretty dirty on the inside)
- the return tube has a which has a pex/plastic outlet piece glued on the bottom which is starting to peel, any specific glue I should be using for the repair (epoxy or cement glue I'm thinking)

I don't really want to seal the holes, I was thinking to use the sump as a big filter and put the heater, pump and poret foam in there. Good to know my options though.

 

[TORX]

The Durso has one tube that is a full siphon and the other is a trickle. When set up properly, the system will be dead silent. You add a valve to the full siphon under the tank to control the flow so that the water level rises just enough to trickle in that other pipe.

You can get most you stuff at Homedepot. I prefer local plumbing/bathroom stores as they will have more and typically cheaper. I personally use Chatham Plumbing or Kent Farms (farm equiptment depot) which is local to me.

 

[TORX]

You should probably replace any soft tubing while it is apart. Maybe look at getting plastic clamps instead as well.

 

[Todd]

You should probably replace any soft tubing while it is apart. Maybe look at getting plastic clamps instead as well.

Ok thanks for the info. I was wondering why you would suggest plastic clamps instead. Thought the steel would have been more reliable myself.