Clown Fish Help

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
I moved my one and only clown fish into my DT last night which already finished cycling.

I noticed that he has not been eating, stay in the top corner and breathing hard. I also notice stringy poo.

What this could be?
 

shamous113

Active Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Location
Stratford
fish sick.png
 

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
Thanks for the chart

He is black and white clown and the colour is fading away under its head. As per the chart suggest, could it be internal bacteria?

I didn't FW dip him
 

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
It has been more than 3 weeks now and I don't see any improvement on this fish. It keeps swimming sideways and stays on the surface gasping for air. Sometime he list and upside down. I don't know whether he is eating or not. He does not want to eat the smallest pellets, and I have to crush the pellets to smaller crumbs.
I am surprised that he is still going until now. Changing the water didn't seem to help to. Is there a nice painless way to put him to sleep? I feel sorry for him. Paraguard and prazipro don't help too.
 

AdInfinitum

Super Active Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Location
Thorndale, Ontario
Since it would have been fine when you got him...when did it start showing signs of illness? Was it fine in a QT originally? Internal bacterial infections tend to make fish bloat, and swim bladder issues don't tend to be a big problem for clowns...

If you're convinced he's beyond hope and are not comfortable pinching off the spine at the base of the skull...you could put it in a container of tank water and put it in the freezer where it will just go dormant from the dropping temperature before it dies painlessly.
 

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
Since it would have been fine when you got him...when did it start showing signs of illness? Was it fine in a QT originally? Internal bacterial infections tend to make fish bloat, and swim bladder issues don't tend to be a big problem for clowns...

If you're convinced he's beyond hope and are not comfortable pinching off the spine at the base of the skull...you could put it in a container of tank water and put it in the freezer where it will just go dormant from the dropping temperature before it dies painlessly.

From the first day I got him, he didn't want to eat the same food that came with him. I QT another clown at the same time and he is okay.
I am not sure whether he is in pain or not.

This is how he looks like the whole time.
IMG_20161220_074515_zps5ip5cvm7.jpg
 

AdInfinitum

Super Active Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Location
Thorndale, Ontario
It's not uncommon for clowns to swim constantly against the glass at odd angels. As long as they have a surface by their belly they are not too concerned with up or down. Most clowns are tank raised so they don't have all of the odd parasite issues that wild caught fish can have...just the usual in-tank bad guys like Ich velvet and Brook. I'm certainly no clown expert like some here so I don't know if tank raised populations have issues from inbreeding yet but they are usually pretty indestructible. Being a new tank I would be wanting to keep a close eye on Ammonia with your first additions.
 

AdInfinitum

Super Active Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Location
Thorndale, Ontario
Oh....and the ammonia checker should be only considered a backup alarm and not a replacement for proper testing as they expire without indication and give inaccurate readings due to numerous factors especially when ph fluctuates.
 

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
I am doing 5 gallons WC weekly on my 40 gallons tank (minus 30 lbs of rocks and 2 bags of sands) and only have 8 snails and one clown fish in DT right now. I hope the WC keep it in balance.

So you think this balck and white clown is normal? He does not behave like any other clowns I have ever seen anywhere.

I don't know what should I do. He has been in QT for few weeks now with no change
 

SpongeAl

New Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Location
Orillia
If you do ever have a problem with your tank, a 12% water change that you are doing is not enough to dilute issues in a new tank.

Does the fish look normal?
 

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
If you do ever have a problem with your tank, a 12% water change that you are doing is not enough to dilute issues in a new tank.

Does the fish look normal?
The sick fish in QT and i did 100% WC. I don't have problemnin my DT *knock on wood*

There is no visible scar, bump, discoloration, mucus, and etc on the fish except stringy poop and weird behaviour swimming sideways, belly up, and stay on top
 

shamous113

Active Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Location
Stratford
Metronidazole was recommended by @AdInfinitum , he posted this here
On the Seachem website it specifically says Paraguard is also for bacterial infections actually

I don't see that in writing, just a little check box under their description. IMHO if it's not working then you need to switch medication.

"ParaGuard™ is the only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available (for parasites on fish). Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot). It is particularly useful in hospital and receiving tanks for new fish and whenever new fish are introduced to a community tank."
 
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Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
Metronidazole was recommended by @AdInfinitum , he posted this here and here


I don't see that in writing, just a little check box under their description. IMHO if it's not working then you need to switch medication.

"ParaGuard™ is the only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available (for parasites on fish). Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot). It is particularly useful in hospital and receiving tanks for new fish and whenever new fish are introduced to a community tank."

He is RIP now.
 
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