New Inwall Build Started

prism127

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Location
Chatham, Ontario
Started the recroom renos and built the opening for the tank.
should have all the drywall done tomorrow then mudding and taping
then floor and drop ceiling
then bringing the tanks down
I will keep posting updated pics
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TORX

Administrator
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Location
Blenheim, Ontario
Website
www.thefragtank.ca
Always seems to go too slow. Before you get too far, seeing that it is not a supporting wall, knock that inside joist by the light switch over a few inches for a longer tank ;)

You may want to remove that electrical box that runs under it. That could be a hazard down the road. Especially while the wall is exposed, that way you can update the wiring to new stuff as well.

I also suggest not making the bottom more then 36" from the floor. Unless you are @BIGSHOW, any higher and you will need a stool to get into the tank. Example, my stand is 36" and tank is 24". I also have the foam and a sheet of plywood, making it a total of 61" from the floor. I have to stand on my tip toes to get high enough that I can reach the bottom of the tank. Very uncomfortable to work down there.
 

prism127

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Location
Chatham, Ontario
Always seems to go too slow. Before you get too far, seeing that it is not a supporting wall, knock that inside joist by the light switch over a few inches for a longer tank ;)

You may want to remove that electrical box that runs under it. That could be a hazard down the road. Especially while the wall is exposed, that way you can update the wiring to new stuff as well.

I also suggest not making the bottom more then 36" from the floor. Unless you are @BIGSHOW, any higher and you will need a stool to get into the tank. Example, my stand is 36" and tank is 24". I also have the foam and a sheet of plywood, making it a total of 61" from the floor. I have to stand on my tip toes to get high enough that I can reach the bottom of the tank. Very uncomfortable to work down there.

I cant really go any lower due to electrical wires. If I were to lower the stand I would have to rewire part of my basement and I am not good at that stuff.

Why dont you come over today Torx and you can help me with the stand and stuff lol
 

SpongeAl

New Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Location
Orillia
I agree, I would put in at least 2 GFCI outlets with a Quad load receptacle attached to each one. (Would give you 2 separate banks of 6 GFCI protected outlets.)
Even 3 banks would be better, but it gets pricey and I don't know what your equipment needs are, but I do know for a fixed install like yours, you can't have too many quality outlets, much better then using power bars.

Now is the time to do it, we can even help online if you are willing to do a sketch of the existing wiring and take pictures as requested.

EDIT: I see you are adding outlets, you replied while I was typing so slow, consider putting at least 2 GFCI in there somewhere.
 

prism127

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Location
Chatham, Ontario
I agree, I would put in at least 2 GFCI outlets with a Quad load receptacle attached to each one. (Would give you 2 separate banks of 6 GFCI protected outlets.)
Even 3 banks would be better, but it gets pricey and I don't know what your equipment needs are, but I do know for a fixed install like yours, you can't have too many quality outlets, much better then using power bars.

Now is the time to do it, we can even help online if you are willing to do a sketch of the existing wiring and take pictures as requested.

EDIT: I see you are adding outlets, you replied while I was typing so slow, consider putting at least 2 GFCI in there somewhere.

I bought 4 boxes so I could put in upto 4 pairs of outlets and GFCI are a must
 

SpongeAl

New Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Location
Orillia
FYI, those white power wires should have a clamp within 6" of the electrical boxes, then leave some slack in the shape of an "S" before it goes into the box.

Also check that you have your daisey-chained GFCIs wired properly. The down-stream GFCI must not be connected to the load screws of upstream GFCI, each box needs to be fed unprotected power.

Exciting though.
 

prism127

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Location
Chatham, Ontario
FYI, those white power wires should have a clamp within 6" of the electrical boxes, then leave some slack in the shape of an "S" before it goes into the box.

Also check that you have your daisey-chained GFCIs wired properly. The down-stream GFCI must not be connected to the load screws of upstream GFCI, each box needs to be fed unprotected power.

Exciting though.
thanks I will do this stuff
 
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