Piping Question

[Josh]

I am using an eshopps nano overflow. Picture below

I am likely going to leave the piping as is. 1 is the emergency 1 is the main drain.

Question i have is would you guys valve both lines? I am planning on gate valving the main drain so i can adjust flow. I would like a valve on the emergency for "maintenance" etc etc. Since i dont plan on using the valve for anything other than manual shut off for maintenance/work on tank would you guys suggest i just use a ball valve?

I was going to just pipe valves right underneath the box then take the pipe straight down 90 it into the stand then likely convert it to plastic tubing for a bit of flexibility. I will either get true-union valves or i will add unions below the valves.

Anything stand out that i might be missing? do you guys recommend me pulling the red emergency and attempting to pipe a bean or herbie?

Also i ordered a mag 3 for the return pump, that should move ~200 gpm at 4-5ft head. Should i put a check valve on the inlet of the pump? Should i add another gate valve to the pump for throttling it to match flow?

Looking to stop at a plumbing wholesale today and get all my piping today and start to pipe it.

Thanks for any advice on this.

 

[TORX]

You should have a gate on the return pump output and the main drain. If you want one one the emergency it is okay, but I would save the cash and get a ball valve for that one.

I personally do not trust check valves. After a while plumbing starts to gunk up and it may not close properly and end up still draining back into the sump. Just be sure to add the siphon break in your return line at the tank.

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[jeffopentax]

You should have a gate on the return pump output and the main drain. If you want one one the emergency it is okay, but I would save the cash and get a ball valve for that one.

I personally do not trust check valves. After a while plumbing starts to gunk up and it may not close properly and end up still draining back into the sump. Just be sure to add the siphon break in your return line at the tank.

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Ball valves work fine for syphon drain and return


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[TORX]

Ball valves work fine for syphon drain and return


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True, you are right. With just the 2 drain pipes he will get better more precise control with a gate vs ball. I use ball valves on my 120 with bean style drain but a gate on my drain for the horse tank as it only has 2 pipes. You are right though, you can use ball valves in either case, it can just be a little more tedious to hit the sweet spot.

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[jeffopentax]

True, you are right. With just the 2 drain pipes he will get better more precise control with a gate vs ball. I use ball valves on my 120 with bean style drain but a gate on my drain for the horse tank as it only has 2 pipes. You are right though, you can use ball valves in either case, it can just be a little more tedious to hit the sweet spot.

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I just threw that in there since it's always debated on here. To each their own


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[Josh]

Yeah ive balanced waterflow through a water cooled AC unit with ball valves before however a gate/balancing valve makes things WAY easier. I had plans to put a gate on the return and drain line. I was more wondering if ball valves were a nono because they plug easier or what not. I want the ball valve on the emergency drain just to be able to isolate the sump if i ever need to do anything major.

What do you mean by this siphon break. I have heard it mentioned a few times but dont entirely grasp it. Does it just allow air to break the suction if the tank starts to drain in the case of a pump being shut off // dying?

I plan to soft pipe the return into a LOC line that is piped through the false wall of the biocube. If i added a small hole into the top of the loc line before it 90's down would that be all i need? So instead of sucking water until you get to the bottle of the return outlet it siphons until it goes below the hole in which case it sucks air in and breaks the siphon?

 

[shamous113]

What do you mean by this siphon break. I have heard it mentioned a few times but dont entirely grasp it. Does it just allow air to break the suction if the tank starts to drain in the case of a pump being shut off // dying?

I plan to soft pipe the return into a LOC line that is piped through the false wall of the biocube. If i added a small hole into the top of the loc line before it 90's down would that be all i need? So instead of sucking water until you get to the bottle of the return outlet it siphons until it goes below the hole in which case it sucks air in and breaks the siphon?

I drilled a 1/8" dia hole on my return lines just at the pump off water level in the tank, that way it gulps air in to the return line before it drains down to the top of the return outlet. by placing it at the water line you don't get any noise from it when the pump is running.