Ro Vs Rodi

[Tim A]

So I was thinking, maybe a dumb question, but that is why I do it here so no one can tell me dumb question to my face lol.

Everyone says to use RO/DI for our tanks. I usually get my water from a local water store that has RO water, TDS is 0. But it is not DI as we are not supposed to drink it.

So am I buying the wrong water? Why do I have to have the DI part of it. Is there that much of a difference?


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[shamous113]

RO water is never 0tds in my old house the ro system for drinking water measured 35-40tds and drinking water should not be below 30tds. The di resign is what removes the last remaining tds after the ro membrane. IMHO using 0 tds water helps to reduce the chances of potential problems caused by tds/contamination in your source water. Their are successful tanks that run off of normal tap water treated to remove chlorine but its not something I want to risk. In one of your other posts you spoke about mixing larger quantities of salt water, why not get a system that will provide ro drinking water for the house and t off to di canisters to make water for your tank?

 

[kapelan]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purified_water
"Deionization is a chemical process that uses..."
RO based on capillary effect - more like mechanical process

 

[TORX]

0ppm RO/DI means there is nothing in it but straight h20. The reason they say do not drink RO/DI is that it is 0ppm and there is no nutritional value at all. You would have the same issue if the RO you are purchasing is 0ppm.

The reason people say to use RO/DI is that if there is ever an issue, you know it did not come from the water source which will help you diagnose the issue. When you see tap water at 400ppm, you do not know what is in that 400. If you see RO at 5ppm, you do not know what is in that 5ppm. Typically what is in the water is metals and minerals that do not evaporate with the water. So those minerals and metals continue to build up as you keep adding more with every top off without them being removed.