Hey reefer’s just tried everything for the past 2weeks to clear up some red slime but nothing is working I had alt of zoas but everything has closed up due to this problem just seeing what I should do next. Did water changes every other day did chemclean added phosguard It’s a 10gallon AIO. I changed light settings to less hours on.
Tried Everything
- Thread starter manuel
- Start date
Hey reefer’s just tried everything for the past 2weeks to clear up some red slime but nothing is working I had alt of zoas but everything has closed up due to this problem just seeing what I should do next. Did water changes every other day did chemclean added phosguard It’s a 10gallon AIO. I changed light settings to less hours on.
Copperkills
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- Nov 8, 2015
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- London
With an airline hose, not your mouth lol
Copperkills
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- Nov 8, 2015
- Location
- London
Shouldn’t really need to use phosguard or chemclean on a tank so small. Nutrient control through water changes should suffice. I would just continue with the water changes and wait it out. You can mechanically remove it with a turkey baster or airline tubing.
derrick orosz
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- Oct 11, 2014
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- Ayr, Ontario
Thank you for clearing that up
Last edited:
harleymike
Super Active Member
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- Nov 11, 2012
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- Courtright, Ontario
How old is the tank.
Yes I am sure it is I know pics are never the best I suck it up every time I do water changes. I have no fish as of now. Yes I followed the chemclean instruction I just did a 50% water change right now and took all the equipment out and wash it good. I have a up grade pump and a nano wave maker in the tank I think it has good flow
When you added phosgaurd, did you do that before you did the chemiclean or after?
A lot of people take their reactors offline or remove the media but put it back in afterwards. Cyanobacteria is a bacteria. If you put the same phosgaurd or carbon or other material back in the tank afterwards, it will reintroduce the bacteria back into the tank. You need to replace the material. You also need to add major air to a tank during a chemiclean treatment. What did you use for that?
That is an insane amount of cyano. It will probably take multiple treatments of chemiclean along side of manual removal.
A lot of people take their reactors offline or remove the media but put it back in afterwards. Cyanobacteria is a bacteria. If you put the same phosgaurd or carbon or other material back in the tank afterwards, it will reintroduce the bacteria back into the tank. You need to replace the material. You also need to add major air to a tank during a chemiclean treatment. What did you use for that?
That is an insane amount of cyano. It will probably take multiple treatments of chemiclean along side of manual removal.
Try another 2-3 treatments. I woul avoid adding the fuel or anything afterwards. Something is out of balance for sure and smaller tanks can be even harder to fix as just a little of anything can mess things up pretty good.
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In my experience , when it goes from red/purple to brown it is beginning to die off. A few more weeks and and more water changes it should soon dissipate. If it has always been brown, it could be dynos or hair algae. Same method to get rid of it, but need to find what your adding that is feed the algae. Try adding a CUC, snails and crabs do wonders for algae control.
kapelan
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- Jan 11, 2015
- Location
- Kitchener, Ontario
Light schedule?
Probably you have long light day.
And what kind of light?
Probably you have long light day.
And what kind of light?
Ok so I did a 50% water change and sucked up all that crap last night. I woke up and it’s back on the sand bed. If it’s dyno bloom would it be long and stringy? I have a kessil 160we and AI prime HD on for 8hrs ramping from low to high at 12pm and bad down
kapelan
Member
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- Jan 11, 2015
- Location
- Kitchener, Ontario
How big is the tank?
You have 100W of LED, that would be good for 20-50g.
I would try 100% of light for 4h. Corals will survive but algae will disappear in 1-3 weeks.
After algae will disappear, increase on 1h every couple of weeks until algae back again.
That's about finding the daylight duration.
You have 100W of LED, that would be good for 20-50g.
I would try 100% of light for 4h. Corals will survive but algae will disappear in 1-3 weeks.
After algae will disappear, increase on 1h every couple of weeks until algae back again.
That's about finding the daylight duration.
Matt1997
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- Sep 18, 2017
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- Barrie/Sudbury
For a 10 gallon tank use either the prime or the Kessil not both. You are blasting that tank with light. Nutrients have to go somewhere and if that tank isn’t loaded with coral we have found the issue. Agree with above post. Shorten that lighting period, remove one of the lights. Keep doing water changes. Up them to every 3 days or so, remove the algae as well as you can. Get a tooth brush and scrub the rock, siphoning everything out. Leave the algae on the back glass, it will act as an algae scrubber helping to balance the tank. As for the light you won’t want to put it anywhere near 100% intensity. Start off low, work your way up. 10 gallon tank, using the prime I wouldn’t be pushing it over 30% personally.