Upgrade Time. Stand: Built Or Bought?

[ponyboy]

So I recently picked up what looks to be a 135 gallon Hagen. 72x19-3/4x24. Hagen website states that they do not use tempered glass on their tanks. So every panel is drillable: it is 1/2inch glass I believe.

My current tank is a 60 long (pita 12-3/4 wide)

Things I need to decide and plan for:

Should I drill the bottom? My current tank is back drilled at the bottom at each end with diy acrylic drains, center drilled at top in back for return. It WORKS well and has for over a year. 0 leaks, no spillages with power outages. It can just get loud. I'll be looking at a more advanced overflow settup for low noise.

My sump is 30x12-1/2. I could do a center overflow and end return, that would give me a nice straight pipe into the display for both ends. Or I could go overflow at each end and T it at the sump, and do a center return. I can still set the sump so the return is straight up this way. This is if I can drill the bottom safely. Any particular spots I should avoid drilling if I do the bottom?

The stand build. Well, my current is total height is a bit over 55 inches. Just enough to hit my armpit when I need to reach in. I'd love to shave at least 2 inches off that total height. My sump is 19 tall. With 2x6's I read I do not need a center support. But that doesn't leave much height inside. If I use 2x4 can I use a center brace that is not directly in the center? I assumed off center would be ok, as a lot of builds are safe with 48 inch tanks with no center brace. Can I use 2x6 top and 2x4's for the floor frame?

This is all I can think of for now... I have lots of time to plan ahead, scheduling to do the transfer in 4-8 weeks.

 

[shamous113]

So I recently picked up what looks to be a 135 gallon Hagen. 72x19-3/4x24. Hagen website states that they do not use tempered glass on their tanks. So every panel is drillable: it is 1/2inch glass I believe.

My current tank is a 60 long (pita 12-3/4 wide)

Things I need to decide and plan for:

Should I drill the bottom? My current tank is back drilled at the bottom at each end with diy acrylic drains, center drilled at top in back for return. It WORKS well and has for over a year. 0 leaks, no spillages with power outages. It can just get loud. I'll be looking at a more advanced overflow settup for low noise.

My sump is 30x12-1/2. I could do a center overflow and end return, that would give me a nice straight pipe into the display for both ends. Or I could go overflow at each end and T it at the sump, and do a center return. I can still set the sump so the return is straight up this way. This is if I can drill the bottom safely. Any particular spots I should avoid drilling if I do the bottom?

The stand build. Well, my current is total height is a bit over 55 inches. Just enough to hit my armpit when I need to reach in. I'd love to shave at least 2 inches off that total height. My sump is 19 tall. With 2x6's I read I do not need a center support. But that doesn't leave much height inside. If I use 2x4 can I use a center brace that is not directly in the center? I assumed off center would be ok, as a lot of builds are safe with 48 inch tanks with no center brace. Can I use 2x6 top and 2x4's for the floor frame?

This is all I can think of for now... I have lots of time to plan ahead, scheduling to do the transfer in 4-8 weeks.

If you want safe and silent overflow look at the bean animal. I have this style on my tank and the only time I can hear it is during start up, http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Regarding the stand you can use 2x6 top and 2x4 long leg horizontal on the bottom, I wouldn't go to 2x4 for the top frame. the bottom frame just keeps the legs in place. honestly if your putting doors on the stand then you'll want a center brace on it to mount the doors too. this brace can be a snug fit and removable.

Attached is a steel stand that I built for @Josh the top frame is 3"x1.5" hss, an unsupported span of 4' will deflect less then 0.1" even so I still added the center support. the center support could be bolted in place if you really wanted to be able to remove it.

 

[ponyboy]

That's the idea on the frame. I may just go off center for the middle support. I just need at least 30 inch opening on the one side. The other won't matter.

 

[shamous113]

if You do it out of wood and then toe screw the center leg in after you install the sump, or if you do a steel frame you'll end up with 33" minimum

 

[Josh]

@shamous113 is definitely the guy to talk to regarding structural and stand builds. A+++

 

[Winks]

@shamous113 is 100% on the bean animal overflow. I just installed mine and it was so simple to adjust. I've been testing my sump to make sure it can hold the water in case of a power outage and have turned it on and off several times. It makes noise when it starts up but it is so quite once it's running. I have a 75g with a canister and it makes more noise than the bean animal. I'm totally sold on that over flow system.

 

[ponyboy]

Oh I'm probably sold on the bean animal. Just deciding on where to put overflow and return. Thought about it today and I may just go end to end so flow is mostly one way. I've got a great shop that does all my acrylic for my so the overflow box is well.... Sky's the limit.

@shamous113 could you tell me: can I use plywood strips in place of 2x4 / 2x6 for the frame? I was offered some 8 foot 1inch lengths. (8inch wide) I have access to some decent tools and can cut down to whatever size I need.

 

[shamous113]

Oh I'm probably sold on the bean animal. Just deciding on where to put overflow and return. Thought about it today and I may just go end to end so flow is mostly one way. I've got a great shop that does all my acrylic for my so the overflow box is well.... Sky's the limit.

@shamous113 could you tell me: can I use plywood strips in place of 2x4 / 2x6 for the frame? I was offered some 8 foot 1inch lengths. (8inch wide) I have access to some decent tools and can cut down to whatever size I need.

I'll shoot you with a pm with my #. yes you can if you have access to a veneer press you can laminate the plywood in to thicker pcs making it way stronger then a 2x8