Water Troubles - Grrr Getting Frusterated

[Tim A]

Hi,

I am getting frustrated with my water pereamteres. I have recently done 4 Medium size water changes to bring up my salinity because my refractometer was 5ppt off. So when I thought i was mixing 35ppt, i was in fact only mixing 30ppt. No wonder corals were not happy.

Anyways... I used Aquaforest Reef Salt
Current Values:

Alk: 9.9dkh.
Ca - 520
PO4 - 0.12ppm
PH - 8.07
Salinty - 34.8 ppt
Tmp 78.1
RO/DI with 0 TDS

I have AF PhosMinus and AF Carbon in reactors.
Phosphate is not really going down, what else can I do?

I don’t dose anything because my ALK does not really fluctuate, usually stays the same or creeps up. Not sure how that happens since my salt has a lower DKH value when mixed.

I have Gen 2 Radions, using EcoTech AB+ schedule.

In the tank is fish, Live rock, some SPS Frags (not doing so hot), and mushrooms and anemone’s, other soft corals. Tank is 75 gal with about a 15 gal sump.

My plate coral is losing tissue and starting to show skeleton and just in the last day my scoly coral has lost about a 1/3 of its tissue and can see its skeleton now. I am worried that today will be the rest for the scolie if it did that in the 1 day

 

[Matt1997]

If you want to really lower your phosphates use phosbond as instructed. Change it every 4 days until phosphates are where you want them. This is a fast acting product so use with caution. You can let the used stuff you swap out dry out and reuse it again. I’ve had it in all my reef tanks for as long as I can recall. Sometimes I leave the same bag in there for a month sometimes I swap it within 1-2 weeks. I’ve never had any issues using it and algae is close to absent within my reef (I let algae grow on back glass to act as an algae mat filter).

I don’t test for phosphates anymore. Phosbond will not release phosphates or aluminum back into the water once it becomes fully saturated. This only occurs at pH levels well below what a reef tank would be. At such a pH your coral are dead anyways. It is relatively expensive though.

 

[Copperkills]

If you have a good skimmer I highly recommend Phosphate Rx, lowers my phosphate almost to the decimal place if dosed as instructed.

 

[Copperkills]

P.S. I use AF Reef Salt, I’ve tested for Phosphate in mixed water and cannot get a reading.

 

[Tim A]

If you have a good skimmer I highly recommend Phosphate Rx, lowers my phosphate almost to the decimal place if dosed as instructed.

View attachment 18249

Would you use this over the phosbond mentioned above?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Copperkills]

100% this reduces and bonds instantly to Phosphate and gets skimmed out. Doesn’t overactive skimmer either. I’ve seen my corals perk up hours after dosing.

I’ve tested after dosing and the reduction is instant and almost exact. The water will cloud but clears up as it’s skimmed out.

 

[shamous113]

@Copperkills is that stuff Lanthanum Chloride?

 

[BIGSHOW]

@Copperkills is that stuff Lanthanum Chloride?

Yup. Just repackaged and re marketed. LC works for sure but it will lower ALK as it binds to the phosphate. It is extremely efficient at removing PO so you need to dose in small amounts and test repeatedly.

I don't really see anything to far off in your parameters. Phosphates at your level will not kill LPS and is not the reason your scoly is dying. I wouldn't do anything drastic in your situation. I would want to lower my nutrients, calc and alk but that would be done with water changes 30-40% every few days and you should be fine.

Fauna Marin (the orginator) has several different types of phosphate removal media. Ultra Phos 0.04 will actually drop you phosphate no lower then 0.04 (optimal level) and works fairly quickly. I use this product myself.

Good luck.

 

[shamous113]

heavy metal contamination in the water may be the issue. you could run some polyfilter. @reefdiver carries it.

The POLY-FILTER is for filtering and purifying both fresh and salt water aquariums. It is a formulation of a special patented material bonded to a synthetic matrix. By means of a unique proprietary process, the POLY-FILTER is made impervious to salt and is also organic loving to certain materials. It can absorb and adsorb contaminants and other toxic materials found in nature or added to fresh and salt water with or without fish and invertebrates. Medication added to fresh and salt water aquariums for treatment of diseased fish will automatically be removed by the POLY-FILTER after serving their intended purpose before the medication can produce a toxic effect on the fish.

The POLY-FILTER is non-toxic and harmless to biological filtration because it allows a sufficient amount of ammonia to reach the biological filter in order to sustain the bacteria culture. The POLY-FILTER provides a supplemental means for removal of ammonia when the biological filter is unable to break down the excess ammonia and its concentration increases rapidly. Then the POLY-FILTER adsorbs the excess ammonia while the biological filter readjusts to higher ammonia input levels. Changes color when exhausted.

Adding vitamins and trace elements:
Remove Poly-Filter from water before adding vitamins or trace elements. After 12 hours place Poly-Filter back into water. Poly-Filter will not remove calcium, magnesium, strontium, barium or alkalinity supplements. Poly-Filter will not remove trace elements included in marine salt mixtures.

General maintenance comments:
Poly-Filter turns color when removing medications. Aqua to Dark Blue: Copper or Copper salts. Orange: Iron. Bright Red: Aluminum. Bright Yellow: Ammonia, Amines or Solvents. Dyes: Color of the solution when added i.e. Methylene Blue: Pale Blue. Malachite Green: Light Green, Tannins/Humic acid: Dark Brown, Organic Wastes: Light Tan progressing to Dark Brown. Poly-Filter extends time between water changes. Add de-chlorinated water to make up for evaporation loss. If pH shifts below acceptable level change water and add a new Poly-Filter. Heavy slime producing water conditioners can surface coat Poly-Filter and interfere with absorption performance. In marine water, soak in 3% hydrogen peroxide then rinse (in freshwater) well. In freshwater soak in 10% marine salt water solution then rinse (in freshwater) well.

 

[kapelan]

....
Alk: 9.9dkh.
Ca - 520
PO4 - 0.12ppm
PH - 8.07
Salinty - 34.8 ppt
Tmp 78.1
RO/DI with 0 TDS
...

Missing Mg test.
Low magnesium level can be the cause of high Calcium.
Not sure why you are focusing on phosphates - it looks acceptable.
Would do 20-30% water change at least twice a week until Ca become 430-450 and check magnesium.

 

[Tim A]

Mg just tested at 1470 using NYOS kit.