Dead Spots?

[dan]

hey guys,
I took some time to go through a few pages here and I was wondering if dead spots in my tank is a serious problem? Couple videos I've seen have very little on it and what I have read has been vague as to how to avoid them.
I'm using pukani rock in a 90gal and plan to aqua scape with a chisel and hacksaw but I don't want to overlook something like this in my startup even if it may be a small issue.
Also I've heard that pukani being porous that it will help pods. Does anyone know if this is valid as it seems to make sense to me?
Also plan to run 2 power heads facing each other any thoughts on size or model? Lps/softie tank.
Any help or advice would be great guys thanks!
Dan

 

[Poseidon]

you definitely dont want any dead spots, usually you get that if you just pile the rocks in a mountain and call it a day.
the key is to have a fairly open bottom layer, but then place rocks strategically on top of the base layer as to basically create a massive cave under your whole rock work.
In that cave, make sure on one end you can point a power head directly into it and your all set.

the cave will also create relaxed and comfortable fish as if fish have a safe place to hide where you cant see them (they cant see you) then they wont be stressed.

If your going with a minimalist approach, they you don't have as big off an issue. as less rock means less room for dead areas

 

[reef keeper]

Leave space at the back for 1

I had some dead spots, and added a second gyre. No dead spots. To be honest, in a 4 ft tank, and gyre 150 (130 isnt powerful enough) turned down and another power head pointing with or against the gyre flow ( experiment here to see what is best) will fix you up.

Make sure you cook the pukani. It's VERY HIGH IN PHOSPHATE

 

[dan]

Thanks man! I like a full tank look over minimalist. I will definitely use ur advice and try to create a cave under my rock work.
Should I grab a 3rd powerhead for this reason?
My other two are facing each other. Not sure if I can just move it.
Thanks
Dan

 

[dan]

[QUOTE="reef keeper, post: 219572, member: 651]Make sure you cook the pukani. It's VERY HIGH IN PHOSPHATE[/QUOTE]
How long would you suggest? Or is there a marker for me to look for when curing?
Thx
Dan

 

[Poseidon]

i might grab a 3rd powerhead if thats the route your going, i even hide on in behind my rock work on my 150g bowfront, but thats not advisable as if you ever have to service or clean it its a pain in the butt to get it out haha
i have no experience with the gyres, but they are very interesting to say the least, wave motion definitely does help eliminate dead spots.

 

[reeferkeeper420]

[QUOTE="reef keeper, post: 219572, member: 651]Make sure you cook the pukani. It's VERY HIGH IN PHOSPHATE

How long would you suggest? Or is there a marker for me to look for when curing?
Thx
Dan[/QUOTE]
Soak in 0tds RODI water, changing 100% every 3-5 days. Testing N03 and P04 until it all reaches 0. Then your done. No exact timeline, just takes time.

 

[dan]

I will use this to start my rock work and keep some space in the back.
Big thank you for the advice and the heads up about the pukani phosphate lvls!
Dan

 

[reef keeper]

Use lanthanum chloride.

Google it. Super easy and speeds it up

 

[dan]

Ok I found this link if anyone else is interested.

http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/foiling-phosphate

Thx reef keeper.
Dan

 

[Nighthawk26]

Although I did not use what reef keeper is talking about, I cured my rock for 2 months. I still had phosphates, although so hard to say for sure cause I had cyano and phosphates were reading 0. But you can't have cyano without phosphates, and cyano consumes phosphates. Took about 6 months for it to stop populating in my tank. The first year however you can expect a whole bunch of issues to come up that are all natural. I experienced nothing else. YET. Fingers crossed 6 months in.

 

[dan]

Yea patience is key. But thankfully I've got a good course to follow at this point so I'll be buying the rock early and starting the process to ensure a healthy home.