Beananimal-overflow Box Dimens

[Jer_H]

Hi all,

I'm trying to plan the overflow design for a new 36x18x20. My only experience is with Durso standpipes. My last 48" 120gal had dual 1.5" Dursos which required a large internal overflow box.

If I was to run a Herbie, I could get away with two 1" bulkheads. I'd also like to run a single return from the sump through the overflow box which would need another 1" bulkhead.

I like the fail safe a Beananimal gives you, but I think having 4x 1" BH's would take up a massive amount of real estate.

Can anyone advise the overflow box size I would need to utilize a Beananimal?

Unfortunately I am unable to go with an external overflow

Thanks in advance,
Jeremy

 

[100gallon]

I went with c2c for my 60 inch 112 with 1 inch schedule 40 bulkheads. 1 inch pvc drain lines, you really are only limited to depth and width to accommodate for elbows and cleaning while still ensuring you maintain your minimum hole spacing and depth from the top black trim.

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[Jer_H]

With only a 36" aquarium, I'm afraid the internal overflow box would be to big using the Beananimal

 

[100gallon]

You can always scale down to 3/4" plumbing. May save you some space. However you could also do an external but would need to have your back pane notched....

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[TORX]

I am running basically a bean drain. It is less then 18" across with a 4" external box. Check out my build picks. Unless you have a bottom drilled tank, you are going to need room being your tank, why not do a thin overflow and external box?

 

[100gallon]

I would check out the thousands of posts by bean animal on reef central. Uncle of six is one of the top posters and question answerers and everything to do with this type of system is described in detail.

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[Jer_H]

I need to have the tank as tight as possible to the wall due to the size of the room, and location of the tank. It has to be drilled on bottom. I'll check out threads on Reefcentral and keep reading.

 

[TORX]

The majority of tanks are tempered on the bottom. Almost guarantee it.

 

[Jer_H]

I'm having the tank built so that isn't an issue.

 

[TORX]

Awesome

 

[reefgeek]

I have a true bean animal system in my dual corner overflow display; total space occupied is roughly 12"x6" (less if you use rounded corner overflows. I had to do some modifications to make the dual corner overflows work ala bean animal style but what I did has worked for me just fine. I essentially joined the corner overflows beneath the sandbed with a pvc channel that allows the bean animal system to function properly. Check out my build thread if you would like to see some pics of what I did.

Additionally I used 1" pvc instead of the 1.5" dursos and get way more flow through than the stock dursos would be able to provide. Also note that my display is 300 gallons and 1" pvc is more than enough flow, cutting down to 3/4" might actually be an option if you go bean animal setup, though I have not done the flow calculations to be sure.

 

[100gallon]

My miracles is not tempered...not sure if mine is an exception?

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[MrHermit85]

I have a 36inch tank except 15 inches high, I just have a internal overflow with two 1inch bulkheads inside one for trickle one for syphon. I am not sure whether that is a herbie or what but with 1 inch spigot and slip elbows it is quite low profile in the back. I will simply be extending my stand towards the wall on the sides to cover what is visible.

 

[teebone110]

if you are going with 4- 1 inch bulkheads, you can squeeze things into a 16" x 4" box, this would include your return, full siphon, trickle, and emergency. If you go with 3 bulkheads, you could probably get it closer to 12" x 4", If you plan accurately, you can go 3.5" inside width. You just need to be careful about the spacing between each hole and the outside edge of the tank. Glass thickness also allows a closer proximity of holes. The glass on the bottom of my tank is 3/4". I think Miracles is conservative and will recommend an 18" x 6" size overflow for 4 holes.

Here is a pic of my internal overflow, I have 3- 1" bulkheads and 1=1.5" emergency, I oversized the durso's to 1.5"
See pic below of my overflow….

You might be able to make things slightly smaller if you go with 3-3/4" bulkheads. and 1-1" bulkhead for your emergency.

Here is a final pic after things were finished…

 

[Jer_H]

Wow! Thanks for that Teebone! That is exactly the info I needed, and the pictures are even better!
You guys are awesome

 

[teebone110]

no problem, I researched this a lot and spoke to many manufactures.
If you look at the reef savvy website, they make a a lot of very sleek overflows, so you can get an idea what can be done.
http://reefsavvy.com

 

[scubasteve]

Wow! Thanks for that Teebone! That is exactly the info I needed, and the pictures are even better!
You guys are awesome

lots of knowledge to be passed around on this forum

no problem, I researched this a lot and spoke to many manufactures.
If you look at the reef savvy website, they make a a lot of very sleek overflows, so you can get an idea what can be done.
http://reefsavvy.com

Jeez i should just hire you to build me one that is sleek looking

 

[Sewerat]

My system has 3 1" drains in not to sure if it qualifies as a bean animal or not? One is on a valve to restrict it one is full open on trickle and other is full open safety drain. None have elbows on the top of them.


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[100gallon]

how does your system maintain full siphon on the full line without being submerged in the overflow via downturned elbows? I think they serve two purposes, one maintaining an 8th inch off the bottom keeps critters out, as well as the full siphon is what makes the thing silent. As far as I have understood, the valve on the full siphon restricts flow to more than the pipe can handle devoid of air, thus the trickle takes on the flow silently around the interior of the pipe, nice and laminar like for the remainder of the flow not taken by the full line. If you have no emergency, I think you are not going to like the set up, as a flood will be imminent at some point! Mine is dead silent, however I only use one ball valve on the full. I didn't make sure the lines terminate at least an inch below the sump water level, and upon start up, I couldn't get a siphon started as there was air in the lines. Also, an absolute must with this system, is on the trickle, you have to have the cap drilled out on the top with the rodi line clipped to your max water level in the overflow, so that if it ever gets up that high, the trickle turns into a full siphon.

 

[Sewerat]

My full drain is submerged with a strainer screen on it and a gate valve let's say 1/2 open. I have it adjusted to just allow a slight trickle into the next highest pipe and then the emergency pipe is slightly higher and always dry. Both trickle and emerge pipe are full open no valves or restrictions short of elbows to lead into basement.i wouldn't say it's DEAD silent but I can't hear it over the noise of the ceiling fan or fireplace running in the same room