DIY LED LIGHT

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patrizio_g

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DIY LED GUIDE.

Hello everyone, im putting together a small guide on how to build your on lED lights, i really like the led light, i think they are the future and now that im hooked  i don't want anything else but LED lol

WHY LED LIGHT

Led can produce more PAR (Photosynthetic Active Radiation) per watt than MH or T5 and that
 
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patrizio_g

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Oh boy don't know what happen with the rest of the
Info LOL,  I will post everything again wen I get home.

Good thing I didn't delet the file I should have it on my Mac
 
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patrizio_g

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DIY LED LIGHTS GUIDE.

Hello everyone, im putting together a small guide on how to build your on lED lights, since there is not much info here about it.

WHY LED LIGHT

Led can produce more PAR (Photosynthetic Active Radiation) per watt than MH or T5 and that’s what we really want to get your corals to grow, another advantage is that they are low consumption so your hydro bill will be less expensive, they also produce less heat so you wont be needing a chiller and they really get the color of your corals out, so here we have few advantage when using LED.

WHAT DO WE NEED FOR OUR LED LIGHT.

-We need 3 Watts LED lights
-An LED driver
-A power supply
-A heatsink
-And a fan or more, depending on the size of the array

WICH LED.

Cree are the most powerful Led’s on the market so far, you can also use Rebel led’s and I have use the 10 Watts Chinese from ebay  they do the job but better stick with Cree, there is a couple of suppliers that I like:
Ledsupply  and rapidled
They have pretty much everything you will need, the only bad news here is that the heatsink coming from US will be expensive on chipping and I haven’t found where to buy them here in Canada yet.

LED DRIVER.

some of them are dimmable others are not, the dimmable ones can be PWS which need a frequency  to be dimmed 0Hz for 0% and 1kHz for 100%, others can be dimmed by difference of voltage on the dimmable pin 0v for 0% up yo 10V for 100%

POWER SUPPLY.

Most of the dimmers need a power supply to run and others have the power supply integrated, some will go to 35V or 36V others will go all the way to 48V and on a big variety of amperes, from 150 ma to 1300 ma 

HEATSINK.

The led get hot so that’s why we use a heatsink to dissipate the heat and a fan to help it, if you can not find a heatsink you can use a tick aluminum sheet.

SOME INPORTANT INFO.

The most important colors are Royal Blue and Cool white; the blue is the one that really helps with the photosynthesis, the royal blue also help bring out the color of the coral’s.
Red help some corals but be careful it also promote the grout of algae so you have to be carefully when using it, make sure you use a diffuser with the red and put it in between cool whites to mix better the red.  You can also use a warm white that has red on it and it will mix better with white.
Some people like to use RGB (red, green and blue) in this case is important to know that the green does nothing for the coral’s but it looks nice to the eyes 
Some people have stopped using the RGB all together and are using UV instead, so that’s up to you. The UV will help bring the color of the coral out.
For tanks 12” high you don’t need to use optics
For 24” you need optics

SOME NUMBERS:

An array of led’s with 60 degree optics can give you and equivalent of 150 W MH light
And a 40 degree optic will give you the equivalent of  250 W MH
Also an array of 10 led can give you 500PAR at 12” depth
And 200PAR at 24” depth. And that’s why optic’s are important to help bring the PAR up at a more depth

HOW TO MAKE AN ARRAY:

Example of an array of 11x3 led’s

W      RB      W      RB
  RB        W      RB
W    RB      W      RB

Separate them from one another by 2” and 3” from one array to the next

W  -2”-  RB  -2”-  W
              3”
      W  - 2”-  RB
              3”
W  -2”-  RB  -2”-  W

And you can keep them 4 1/2” from the edge of the glass all around your tank.
Another way is to put them all at 2” from one another; this is more typical on deeper tanks
This are just examples, you can get them closer if it is for a 24” depth tank, what its important is that you need to cover the bottom of the tank with light and you want to make sure you don’t have any spot lights.
If you only have an array of lets say 6 led 3x2 led you can do it this way:

W    B    W
B    W    B

MOON LIGHT.

Ledsuply have some very inexpensive and nice moon light led.
The idea of the moon light is to make it nice to look at, at night  and here you will want to see some spot lights, you want to see the light flickering at the bottom of the tank with the water movement or at least that’s my preference at the end of the day is what you like the best.

I hope this guide is useful to you guys, I have done some lights and I spent a lot of time researching to make my first one, also all the numbers that I gave you are from some  other folks that have the equipment to do it, and those are the numbers that more people go by.     
 

TORX

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Location
Blenheim, Ontario
Website
www.thefragtank.ca
Great bit of information. Especially for someone like me who likes DIY everything. Yourpost said that you made some lights, any chance you have photos of your final product? or pics of the DIY project?
 
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patrizio_g

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xxmurrxx link said:
I think this forum has some copy paste issues.. Had some problems trying to post an email I had.
you are right xxmurrxx, there is an issue with copy and paste, any ways i manage by editing and saving it and then it works, weird

anyways its here now and i hope its useful.
 
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patrizio_g

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Torx link said:
Great bit of information. Especially for someone like me who likes DIY everything. Yourpost said that you made some lights, any chance you have photos of your final product? or pics of the DIY project?

Hi Torx, i will put some hopefully tomorrow :)
 
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patrizio_g

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this is an array of 8x2 that i fitted on and old canopy.

i use:
2 10W cool white chines led
2 10W royal blue chines
1 3W neutral white cree
1 3W royal blue cree
1 3W green cree
1 3W red rebel
2 drivers with power supply integrated on it
1 fan
1 tick sheet of aluminum

The first is with all the led's on, the second is with only the royal blue on and the third is wit the whites only
i also got one cheep chines 3W cool white led with driver for the Refugio  lol
 
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patrizio_g

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i put a sheet of copper foil on the heatsink to help spreed the heat.
next i want to put some 60 degree optic on the RGB.   To be honest if i do it again i will use UV instead of red and green.

to do this on 3W led, i will use cree and put them on an array of 8x3

CW   RB   CW
   RB    CW
RB   CW   RB

you can always put an UV right in the center.  No need for optical because is not 24" tall.
 
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patrizio_g

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Thanks.

i will put later some other pictures of another lights that i did for a friend.
 
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patrizio_g

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I had to dim the light again today just too much, any ways im working on a new fixture for this light something nicer and this is what i got so far.
 
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patrizio_g

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and i got an idea for a bracket to suspend it above the tank, so ill try to work on that tomorrow
hopefully i can get it done :)
 
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patrizio_g

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and that its not a full power, any ways that is for now, that light will be for the refuge of my new 27 Gal i will be working on,
and the new light for this baby is going to be a surprise, i ordered today the heat sink for it  from rapid led
k that's it for now.
 
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patrizio_g

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pulpfiction1 link said:
looks good,apears to be bright enough

i don't have it a full blast either, that lamp has 43W on LED and with not optics it should be an equivalent of 150W on MH. Not bad for the money i spent on it which was around the $100n - $110 
 
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