Lagoon Reef Build

David Caplan

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After mounting the lights, I couldn't get them programmed, no matter what I tried to do with my Reeflink. After an hour on the phone with Ecotech, and me taking apart the Reeflink, it looks like my 3 month old unit has died. They can't send a replacement to Canada, so they want me to go to the distribution center to get a new one. I will probably take the lights down, program them, and then put them back up.
 

cyberloach

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See if they will send to one of those services that provide a USA address. The service then sends you the parcel from there warehouse
 

scubasteve

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thats unfortunate about their service i know both ai and hydor have amazing cs from multiple experiences myself. but all in all it is looking very nice. keepit coming :)
 

David Caplan

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I ran some extension cables to program the Radions from my computer. The software bugged out half a dozen times even connected directly. I cannot program the MP10 anymore without my Reeflink.

The transfers have begun, got almost all the fish in there, a couple anemones and a cleanup crew.
 

Nonuser

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So you add everything so fast? I thought a new tank needed to mature first? Will you not have water chemistry issues?
 

David Caplan

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So you add everything so fast? I thought a new tank needed to mature first? Will you not have water chemistry issues?
It depends on how much you know about water chemistry and how much you are willing to test. Adding aerobic bacteria fuelled by proper parameters, aeration and carbon (vodka/vinegar dosing) gets you the bacterial growth required to to skip cycling. Adding large populations of zooplankton and phytoplankton populated the rock and sediment with what would be there if it were mature. Essentially it is a method of biologically maturing the system using a mix of ingredients.

I also test each paramater and dose accordingly, even the "trace" elements like iron and iodine.
 
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Nonuser

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Thank you for the great information, knowing what is possible and how it's possible helps everyone in the hobby
 

David Caplan

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It took me an entire day to catch the Blue Tang in my QT tank, he was very cautious after I easily scooped the Yellow. The Yellow Tang started off as a bit of a bully, chasing the Copperband around. As soon as the Blue Tang was put in all the aggression stopped, and they are actually swimming together for the most part. Everyone is in great shape and happy to be in a more spacious tank. The Tangs were purchased from a 100 gallon tank that had more than 2 dozen XL tangs in it, amongst other fish, and they didn't have much space to move around.

I am going to very slowly transfer corals over. I am very much trying to avoid problems, between the bryopsis and the monti-eating nudis that have sprung up in my old tank while I have been busy setting up the new one. My plan is to dip the corals and blast off all nudis and eggs I can, place them in QT, and dip again in a week. I will also pluck everything I can off manually, and use hydrogen peroxide when necessary. Does anyone know if peroxide will kill either the nudi or the eggs? Maybe I can kill two birds with one stone.
 

David Caplan

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I am using the concentrated Coral RX, I use about 1.5x dosage, and also use a turkey baster constantly for 10 minutes, then a toothbrush and examination out of the dip.

Went by Fragbox and picked up a few gems to start the tank off. Thanks Marsh!

I am going to need to brush up on my photography, these are a little soft :(.
The Orange Passion is tiny, but it still has incredible polyp extension.


 

David Caplan

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Thanks!

I'll have to re-take these when they are acclimated and with the daylights on. Glad Ryan at R20 had some of his latest shipment left, can't believe these got left behind. L

Edit: Proper pics.


 
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David Caplan

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The trach keeps opening, wonder how big its gonna get. Visited Alex @ FragCave to pick up this wonderful clam. Thanks Alex!


 

David Caplan

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Got a lot of work done this weekend. Cleaned up and fragged a bunch of corals, took a bunch off the live rock and added them to floating frag racks while I work on coral placement. I dipped every piece of coral I had once, brushed off any filamentous algae with hydrogen peroxide, quarantined for a week in fresh tankwater, then did it again. The dremel I bought with a couple diamond tips is doing fantastic work, and it is much easier than using a saw in an apartment :). I finally have a Sea Hare that is working like it should, and it is lawnmowing my 20 gallon and the frags I put back in. I will be converting the tank to a rock-free frag tank, and may be selling the live rock inside, but it quite encrusted with corals. I may sell it as is or whip out the saw, haven't decided.

Meanwhile, things are coming together slowly:
 

David Caplan

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very nice, sometimes the simple designs are the nicest...very clean looking...
Thanks so much.

I am debating what to fill out the higher parts of the bridge with.
Major considerations:
  • When the return is cut, the water level is a bit lower and the corals sit half-out, so it should be a coastal coral that is used to the tide (in case of power outage)
  • There is very little room to grow upwards
  • Must be high-light if it is to go ontop of the bridge
  • Must be low-light if it is to be stuck under the bridge

Any ideas?
 

heath

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you could always go with something that doesn't grow tall, like gsp..it can be very forgiving,,, I personally like wavey things in my tank..
 
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