Red cyno

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Gietz

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Yup I'm sure it is cyno red Algee on the sand bed.  So I measured my nitrates at its about 1ppm.  Then I did some reading on my RODI unit. Turns out when the DI turns dark purple/black you Need to change them. So I did and at the same time I looked at the RO part and everything is still white and clean.  I'm busy with exams till Monday but I'm going to flush the system.  I do have a pressure gauge but it doesn't read anything so should it?

And yes I did place my powerhead to hit the cyno. Also I believe my TDS meter is messed cause it give me messed readings anyway just and update as I think that the problem is solved. I'll post up with updates if it gets worse and next time I know to change DI in 3 months lol

Thanks all
 
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El concistador

Guest
I'm not a fan of flow being benefitial to getting rid of cyno only because a lot of people have lagoon type tanks that have low flow with a lot of yuma's  with no cyno.

just something to think about imo.

try vacuming your sand and maybe cut back on feeding and bioload/stocking. imo your tank will naturally be one huge filter in the long run. It's all about balance and if you want a large amount of miniture clean up crew you can't have the larger clean up crew eat them.
 
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crazybizzle

Guest
not sure if u do this brent but i run/flush my rodi for 20 min before i even start using the water i noticed that helped me out when i first started
 
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Gietz

Guest
ill try vacuuming it when i finish up exams on monday and James why do you flush it every time? and i believe we have the same RODI unit if memory is right.  how long do you DI resin beads last for?  i just switched mine out after 5 months? and you know that TDS meter that comes with it? i thinks its messed as it give me stupid readings
 
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crazybizzle

Guest
cant remember for sure but the ro/di kit or a email from them when i was asking questions qbout the unit it had said its reommended to flush for 5 to 20 min before or after alot of useage on the the unit helps prolong everything plus makes sure no containments left in lines. the beads im not sure how long depends on usuage but should be good for a year..and ya tds meter is sometimes sqrewy.. might have to calibrate it again
 
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Gietz

Guest
Hmm but all and all I noticed the red cyno moved back abit. As for the flushing I believe you mean turn the knob at the back so all water goes out the waste tube?  It's funny with this tank I'll get a problem fix it and a week later another minor problem, but from what I've been reading its normal for the first year of a tank (prob cause I don't know everything)
 
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Zakk

Guest
Just so you know I definitely know what I'm talking about, here is a shot from my tank sometime around june of this year when I was using tapwater and no GFO.  I had the same powerheads and flow I have now, and while that was somewhat helpful at keeping it off the substrate, any place that had any kind of shelter from the flow would grow tons of algae and slime. 

Changing nothing but the water quality resulted in 100% improvement.  Nowadays if I see any bubbles at all on a rock, I know it's time to change the GFO media. 
 
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El concistador

Guest
ec73900b.jpg


the bottom of the pic where the bubbles are, are  imo the beginning of cyno.
 
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Gietz

Guest
Yup I had crazy bubble before cyno!! And Zakk I hope you don't think I don't trust your advice? I'm taking it lol you and the others have been a great help :). Also what is that metallic green coral?
 

pulpfiction1

Reef Scavenger
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Location
42.418807, -82.174073
i found this read on another forum,dunno if its worth a try but it might be worth the read:

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Cynobacteria/Red Slime Algae: A Success Story (Long) (remover lighting pink salt high)


Well, I spent years fighting what seems like a loosing battle with
consistent Cynobacteria battles (I always seemed to have perfect levels of
nitrite, ammonia, phosphate etc.). It used to get everywhere in my tank
spreading like wildfire. After 3 years its seems to have finally gone. Heres
how I done it, hopefully it may help some of you out!

The following seems to have made no difference:
- Cleaning; Removing the rocks and scrapping the crap off. Helped but always
returned within hours
- Frequent water changes; Even though I used RO and a gravel cleaner, it
never seemed to help
- Silica/Phosphate remover; complete waste of money
- Good water chemistry and quality

What I believe had no affect to significantly reduce the problem (but helped
a little):
- Different lighting; every combination of T8 lighting tubes
- Live sand bed; added at an expensive cost. Had to remove more then three
quarters of the sand.
- Increased water circulation; added 2 power heads
- Aggressive cleaning to remove all traces of it in the tank.
- Using a poly filter and high retention carbon

So what I believed helped most:
- A powerful skimmer; I bought a Deltec MC500 ... absolutely awesome. The
crap it took out of the tank absolutely stank! (its been in there for 2
months prior to the tank being cured)
- Better water circulation and increased water drain/return through sump;
Add a second drain pipe to my overflow box and adjusted the powerheads.
- Washed the food (after defrosting in tank water) with clean fresh water
i.e. not putting in the tank the water that had defrosted with the food (the
fish dont seem to mind)
- purchased a sand shifting goby

the above seemed to help alot, but it still came back in small patches.

So ... What finally got rid of the stuff?
Using different salt!

I had read about this and finally tired it. I always used TMC salt and
pretty much swore by it. What really changed my mind to try something
different was when I went to my LFS one day and saw that their tanks had
outbreaks of Cynobacteria (and had never had before) . They used to sell a
couple different salts but had recently changed to TMC only (so you have to
assume that's what they used in their system). I managed to source some Reef
Crystals salt. First water changed made no difference and I could see my
sand taking on that familiar tint of pink. I made a second water change
after a week or so and the stuff hasn't returned since (and every day I
could see it reduce). I also read that changing the salt mixture every 6
months should help it as well (something about the bacteria not liking
change!)

So in summary, if your having problem with Cynobacteria try ...
1. Get yourself a better skimmer
2. Wash your frozen food
3. Use different salt (and change brands every 6 months)
4. Significantly increase water circulation and flow
5. Do frequent water changes with RO


Trust me with a little patience it will go!

HTH

Bob
 
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Fraggle Rock

Guest
Great find pulp I'm sure everyone could benefit from doing at least four of the five things listed there.
I recently switched salts and know its drastically increased the health and look of everything in my tank.
(IO to royal nature) Best part is no dosing anything in my little 20 gal just do a water change and everythings back up to par, but that of course is situational.

Cleaning your buckets regularly is also a good habit to pick up.
 
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El concistador

Guest
Gietz link said:
Yup I had crazy bubble before cyno!! And Zakk I hope you don't think I don't trust your advice? I'm taking it lol you and the others have been a great help :). Also what is that metallic green coral?

nasty stuff indeed. ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure.
 
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Zakk

Guest
The green coral was my frogspawn, it's looking a little better today.

I switched to royal nature lately too, seems to be fantastic salt, I was an IO guy forever.  I don't know if I agree with the advice of changing salt mixes every 6 months though if things are going well, if it ain't broke kind of thing.
 
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Fraggle Rock

Guest
Yeah I Don't think I want to switch brands again anytime soon. That one seemed a little far fetched to me too, But it still opens me up to trying different brands now and then if I see a good deals on.
 
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Zakk

Guest
Fraggle Rock link said:
Great find pulp I'm sure everyone could benefit from doing at least four of the five things listed there.
I recently switched salts and know its drastically increased the health and look of everything in my tank.
(IO to royal nature) Best part is no dosing anything in my little 20 gal just do a water change and everythings back up to par, but that of course is situational.

Cleaning your buckets regularly is also a good habit to pick up.

Clean buckets... good advice.  I usually drop a tds meter in the bucket when I'm getting RO water. Anything but a 0 reading and I dump it and rinse it out really good. 
 
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Fraggle Rock

Guest
The more I think about it. It would probably be more beneficial to switch out or add a few nicely cured and quarantined pieces of live rock every six months then switching salts.
 

pulpfiction1

Reef Scavenger
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Location
42.418807, -82.174073
i try to cop a little live rock from anywhere i see a stable system,even a little rubble from the sump,my salt use is just what i get the best deal on,i dint buy any particular kind
 
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Gietz

Guest
Yes thanks for the read!!! And Zakk I asked because I noticed something growing on my rock that looks like either a mushroom or frogspawn. I don't know?? As for salt I'm happy with reef crystals :) I'm getting my reactor this week and hopefully by the mid of january I'll have no problem :)
 
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Zakk

Guest
Atta boy :)

I had a bad bout with dyno's when I tried a bucket of reef crystals, so for those are out of the question for me.  Probably completely a coincidence, but once bitten....
 
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