Ok just getting started and I'm in no hurry to populate my tank. I have a 90g with 20g sump/refugium, 600gph overflow, 2 1300gph overheads and 300w heaters for tank and sump. I have 40lbs of Key Largo rock and another 100 on its way plus my ro/di system. What process is needed to start my system if I use dry rock only? Does this Dr. Tims start the process? Can i add live rock to this if I decide to add 10-15lbs of live? Looking for pointers or pitfalls with this plan. I'm also looking to build a 30-35g sump/refugium once I find a cheap tank. Thanks for any help.
what process is need if I use dry rock only i
- Thread starter Sidewaze
- Start date
- Status
xxmurrxx
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2010
- Location
- Windsor, Ontario
From what I understand you don't need anything to get it going, eventually it'll all become "live" rock.
The two thing you mentioned (bacteria in a bottle, and live rock) will help speed up the process though.
With live rock you may introduce unwanted pests right from the get go, and that sucks to start a tank right away and have a problem.
On the other hand live rock can introduce good critters to your tank.
I have used the sachem stabilize to start my tank, seemed to work out good. Never tried without doing anything though so i'm not 100% on that, someone here will probably confirm or not.
The two thing you mentioned (bacteria in a bottle, and live rock) will help speed up the process though.
With live rock you may introduce unwanted pests right from the get go, and that sucks to start a tank right away and have a problem.
On the other hand live rock can introduce good critters to your tank.
I have used the sachem stabilize to start my tank, seemed to work out good. Never tried without doing anything though so i'm not 100% on that, someone here will probably confirm or not.
spyd
Super Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2011
- Location
- Kitchener, Ontario
I used Dr. Tims as well and it seemed to work for me. Mind you, I also used about 15 lbs of live rock in my sump just to help with the bacteria. Once you add Dr. Tims, just remember that the bacteria will die-off if there is no nitrates to feed it. So, be sure to add a bit of fish food once or twice a week just to let it breakdown and create some nitrates in the tank. Once you add a fish, then you can stop adding excess food.
Ok sounds good. It killing me waiting for more rock and ro/di system can't do much without it. Lol. Think I've decided on red sea pro kit what else is need for testing the water? Is a refractor better to use than hydromoter ? I seen a combo package RHS-10ATC and a PH-025 for 36 dollars are they good? Just want to make smart purchases so ask the ones who know rather than sales pitch.
xxmurrxx
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2010
- Location
- Windsor, Ontario
Refractometer for sure, you'll save yourself from tones of headaches.
I have the red sea test kit for cal, mag, and alk. I'm a fan of their new test kits. Not sure what's in the pro kit but you'll need ammonia nitrate and nitrite test kits. I wouldn't worry too much about calcium and such while your cycling your tank
I have the red sea test kit for cal, mag, and alk. I'm a fan of their new test kits. Not sure what's in the pro kit but you'll need ammonia nitrate and nitrite test kits. I wouldn't worry too much about calcium and such while your cycling your tank
teebone110
Distinguished Member
If you want to do things right and if you want to be successful, a refractometer is a no brainer.
If you just want a FOWLR then you can get away with a swing arm hydrometer.
If you just want a FOWLR then you can get away with a swing arm hydrometer.
- Status