Zoa / Hammer / Leather Advice

Josh

Active Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2017
Location
London
Biocube 29 with upgraded LED lighting (intensity set at approx 30-35%)
Im about 7 months into my setup and my first experiences with fragging
I have some of the testing equipment but i lack some of the specific tests like calcium.

I have 3 frags of ZOAs
1 hammer frag
1 tylee green leather

I have placed 2 of the zoa frags on my top level
1 zoa frag is about "medium level" which means its on the 2nd layer of liverock (of 3)
hammer frag is on the medium 2nd layer as well
tylee is near the top

I have found my first zoa frag (on the top) was a mixed frag and has shown a bit of bleaching. I originally had my LEDs pretty much roaring full tilt ive since corrected that before adding ANY of the other corals (that zoa frag was my test run)

I have found my newer top frag of zoas is staying pretty retracted (they are open tho) just doesnt feel fully open (i know i should wait 2 weeks before i start to worry)

The other new frag which is on kind of a Y shape frag (i attached it standing straight up on the 2nd level)
Only a few of the zoa's are opening.

The green leather and hammer frag appear to be doing awesome.

Bit worried about bleaching the top frag (its reasonably large with probably 20+ polyps)
the one thats slightly bleached already was really cheap and only had about 10 polyps.

I did some reading and found really no rhyme or reason for where zoa's should be placed. I saw some like high placement some like low placement. Should i be waiting 2 weeks before making any changes?

What signs should i look for that my zoa's are dieing. I did a small test on the "bleached" frag by going near it and seeing if they closed up and all of them closed up fairly quickly w/o any issues. Im really hoping i just hit it with a bit too much light that first week or two i had it.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
 

nathan

Super Active Member
Website Affiliate
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Location
sarnia
Biocube 29 with upgraded LED lighting (intensity set at approx 30-35%)
Im about 7 months into my setup and my first experiences with fragging
I have some of the testing equipment but i lack some of the specific tests like calcium.

I have 3 frags of ZOAs
1 hammer frag
1 tylee green leather

I have placed 2 of the zoa frags on my top level
1 zoa frag is about "medium level" which means its on the 2nd layer of liverock (of 3)
hammer frag is on the medium 2nd layer as well
tylee is near the top

I have found my first zoa frag (on the top) was a mixed frag and has shown a bit of bleaching. I originally had my LEDs pretty much roaring full tilt ive since corrected that before adding ANY of the other corals (that zoa frag was my test run)

I have found my newer top frag of zoas is staying pretty retracted (they are open tho) just doesnt feel fully open (i know i should wait 2 weeks before i start to worry)

The other new frag which is on kind of a Y shape frag (i attached it standing straight up on the 2nd level)
Only a few of the zoa's are opening.

The green leather and hammer frag appear to be doing awesome.

Bit worried about bleaching the top frag (its reasonably large with probably 20+ polyps)
the one thats slightly bleached already was really cheap and only had about 10 polyps.

I did some reading and found really no rhyme or reason for where zoa's should be placed. I saw some like high placement some like low placement. Should i be waiting 2 weeks before making any changes?

What signs should i look for that my zoa's are dieing. I did a small test on the "bleached" frag by going near it and seeing if they closed up and all of them closed up fairly quickly w/o any issues. Im really hoping i just hit it with a bit too much light that first week or two i had it.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
I'm my opinion your correct... you hit it with to much light ... give it some time now to see if it heals.... time will tell now.
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
You need to lower the intensity of your led if you have not. If they are pulling in they are trying to shield themselves from light damage. The longer they are in the more damage they get and the less feeding they can do. Drop it by at least 10% depending or till you see them open back up.

Unless you are experience and can properly judge light intensity of where the coral came from and be able to match the same level for placement in your system it is best to place them is a lower light spot and slowly accumulate them to higher light. With LED zoes don't typically like the high light spots like right at the top of the tank or the hot zones (right below each pods to about the middle of the tank). Till they accumulate and sometimes even then they don't. So you are best to place them middle to bottom. For the bleached ones I would move them to the substrate where they get good light and good flow till they heal properly. That will lower the light level and provide them with supplemental food. Active feeding will greatly increase the healing process because it substitutes and makes up for the lack of zooxanthellae. It should not be placed into a darker area as it still needs light for when the density of zooxanthellae starts to increase again. To low a level and you will limit that.
 

heath

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Location
Woodstock, Ontario
I am no expert by any means but, I always start mine at the bottom and work my way up from then.. I find it easier to give them more light than take it away.. good luck, this hobby is a true learning curve..
 

Canadianeh

Active Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Location
T-dot
I am no expert by any means but, I always start mine at the bottom and work my way up from then.. I find it easier to give them more light than take it away.. good luck, this hobby is a true learning curve..

so does it mean you don't glue anything permanently until it gets to the spot that you want so you can move them up step by step?
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
I only add a dab of glue to hold it in place till I see it is doing good. In time you gain experience and you learn to eye ball these things with accuracy.
 

Josh

Active Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2017
Location
London
yeah honestly i didnt add much coral glue so it should pop "relatively easily" im going to wait a day or so and maybe post some pics. Ive read it can take a few days for zoas to acclimate so im going to patiently sit on this til maybe monday then if i see them still not responding well to their light levels / flow etc etc ill try moving some things around.

Easier said than done preaching patience i think....
 

Josh

Active Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2017
Location
London
NEiTr


Small frag on the right is the bleached one, one on the left is the new one (i think the retracted zoa's is because of a snail driveby)
 

hark

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Location
Wellesley, Ontario
Biocube 29 with upgraded LED lighting (intensity set at approx 30-35%)
Im about 7 months into my setup and my first experiences with fragging
I have some of the testing equipment but i lack some of the specific tests like calcium.

I have 3 frags of ZOAs
1 hammer frag
1 tylee green leather

I have placed 2 of the zoa frags on my top level
1 zoa frag is about "medium level" which means its on the 2nd layer of liverock (of 3)
hammer frag is on the medium 2nd layer as well
tylee is near the top

I have found my first zoa frag (on the top) was a mixed frag and has shown a bit of bleaching. I originally had my LEDs pretty much roaring full tilt ive since corrected that before adding ANY of the other corals (that zoa frag was my test run)

I have found my newer top frag of zoas is staying pretty retracted (they are open tho) just doesnt feel fully open (i know i should wait 2 weeks before i start to worry)

The other new frag which is on kind of a Y shape frag (i attached it standing straight up on the 2nd level)
Only a few of the zoa's are opening.

The green leather and hammer frag appear to be doing awesome.

Bit worried about bleaching the top frag (its reasonably large with probably 20+ polyps)
the one thats slightly bleached already was really cheap and only had about 10 polyps.

I did some reading and found really no rhyme or reason for where zoa's should be placed. I saw some like high placement some like low placement. Should i be waiting 2 weeks before making any changes?

What signs should i look for that my zoa's are dieing. I did a small test on the "bleached" frag by going near it and seeing if they closed up and all of them closed up fairly quickly w/o any issues. Im really hoping i just hit it with a bit too much light that first week or two i had it.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
If you have an apex you can borrow my light meter to determine the right levels
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
If you are leaving as is for now watch for signs of them getting worse. Like bleaching or the polyp ends starting to round. The rounding and getting shorter is because they are getting light damage.
 
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