Building A Reef Kman Style.

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
Since this is a complex topic with a large scope of topics that need to be covered I have decided to break it down into sections. An important part of the reef and long term success is properly laying the foundation of your reef in order to cut down on issues and to have long term success. First start off with sorting your rocks into categories. (See pictures for types of rocks) Each type of rock has its own uses. I sort mine into prime, base, foundation, rubble, flat stones and finishing stones.

Foundation stones should be picked first and laid down as they will add structure and support to all that is added on top of it. This step is and I can’t stress this enough very important as it will mean the difference between a stable structure or a flimsy one. These rocks are typically large and not much to look at. That is ok they will be covered an the primary job is heaving lifting not looks. When you place them make sure to do so first before adding substrate and allow for space between them so you can build cave’s and caverns to allow for flow through the structure. This is important to stop buildup of waste and uneaten food and will impact your nutrient levels. This step is important because it helps cut down on old tank syndrome and algae blooms in the long run and will influence your face of the rock structure so take your time at this step. I put larger rocks in the back and slightly smaller one in the front. Up to you how you do it. But if you place to large a stone at the front it will mess with your depth and get up all in your business. It will feel like you are forcing your structure onto the viewer and you will not get proper depth perception in your tank. Once your foundation stones are in place you can place a thin layer of substrate at the back of the tank that will be covered by your rock structure. You don’t want a lot because too much and waste will build up. Since it is under your rock structure you can’t do proper bed maintenance to keep it healthy. So it will be a constant source of nutrients over time.

Base rock comes next. It is typically used under your prime rock and to fill in spaces and to make high and low spots so you can have a uneven surface that is visually pleasing yet stable when prime rock is added. Don’t use the base rock all up as you can and will need it to fill in odd spots and other spots and if used on your rock face it will be turned into new prime. So any that is very interesting choose to use on top and any that is not much to look at under your structure.

Prime rock will make up the majority of the face of your reef structure and will be what you see the most. So it is important to pick proper prime stones with interesting shapes to help add depth. They will typically be like puzzle pieces because you chose interesting shapes and if placed correctly will click into place. Adding stability and be visually pleasing to the eye. Anything that is encrusting will take interesting shape of the rock and add depth and effect to your tank. This stage is important as it will more than likely be the bulk of your rock. If you don’t have a lot of prime choose base rocks with interesting shape so in time they become prime face stones.

Rubble stones. Rubble can be used in the substrate to add stability to any caves or borrows that are dug by fish or shrimp that you might want to add. Just be careful mixing rubble and small grade substrate, it can and will compact and cause nutrient issues in your substrate and tank. You will more than likely have to take it out if it does or it will be a constant source of nutrients. The small substrate will settle below the rubble and compact like cement. So use sparingly or don’t mix the two.

Finishing stones. These are important as well as they add fine touches to the tank and go a long way to your overall ascetics of the structure. They will be used to change the way your finished rock looks and they will fill in spaces and gaps that look unnatural or to sharp and they are good for adding interesting small rock formations in the substrate. They are also good for changing the rock line in the substrate to interesting patterns. Especially if you burry half of the small rock in the substrate and leave a small space between the rock that it is beside. It helps your rocks look more natural and your tank will look like it has been around for some time as it looks like the rocks are partially buried in the substrate. Plus the random stones that poke out of the substrate add a sense of natural look to your tank.

Flat stones. These are good to set aside and are great for cave roofs or if you need something in front of the tank that is low and adds depth to the tank they are good to place directly on the bottom of the tank. I myself add these before I add the substrate and allow a thin layer under the stone. When you add your substrate it will be partially covered and will look more natural and the thin layer allows the fauna to breed yet not compact and be a source of nutrients.

When placing rocks try to move as much substrate from under them if you added them after the substrate is already in. When I have my foundation stones in I add my substrate. I like to add substrate in an empty tank or if this is not an option empty a large portion of water and wait an hr after it settles before beginning work. You can wait till the end when you are finished the rock formation to add it. It is up to you. But keep in mind it will turn your tank cloudy and make things hard to see. I like to run filter socks and filter floss to help keep things clear once my water level is at the top.

I have attached some pictures of the different rocks so you have a basic idea of what to look for.
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
Base and flat stones.

Base stone.jpg


Foundation stones right. Base left.

foundation stones.jpg


Prime and new prime stones. Notice the color.

Prime stone.jpg



Rubble stones.

rubble stones.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Location
London, ON
Nice tutorial and explanation. I was joking about the video in the other thread but I actually think a video showing you setting one up while explaining would be great. Although I realize how time consuming that would be. At least now I have a guideline when re-working my current tank or setting up a new one. :D

Thanks for the post! Dave. :cool:
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
Nice tutorial and explanation. I was joking about the video in the other thread but I actually think a video showing you setting one up while explaining would be great. Although I realize how time consuming that would be. At least now I have a guideline when re-working my current tank or setting up a new one. :D

Thanks for the post! Dave. :cool:

Video is pending. haha
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
When placing your rock structure you should factor in and allow for the rocks that corals are on. If you don’t your corals will be to high on the structure and will cut down on available growth room. To get around this I add my coral rock when I am doing my prime rocks so they blend in with the surrounding rocks instead of sitting on top. This allows the corals a better solid foundation, allows for maximum growth potential and overall looks more natural. Do not under any circumstances pile rocks on top each other because sorry it will look like a pile of rocks. You want to avoid that.

In this picture below look at the leather placement. Since it is on large rocks I had to add early and work my rock structure around it. So it doesn't look out of proportion or out of place. Notice I didn't center the coral? I like to off center things as it looks more natural. If you have a big coral right in the center it takes away and over powers the rest of your tank. You want each part of your tank to complement the rest and tie the look all together. Not steel focus and make things not flow. It ill mess with the depth you are trying to add to the tank. Place larger corals like leather in the back and corals that grow up or smaller in the front. Things like soft corals and gorgonians that need space to grow will look natural. I will go into this more in depth under my coral stocking section I will be doing.

At this stage my foundation stones are in place and I have begun to fill in some prime rock on portions.

IMG_00000921.jpg
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
This was from week one. I have not added my full amount of rocks yet as I know the first few months is a work in progress and I need to have room for tweaking. I do my rocks in layers.

IMG_00000934.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Location
London, ON
Nice ... looks amazing. When I got my 46 gal. bowfront a year ago I didn't know much about saltwater tanks really. I'd read some stuff over the years but it's certainly different owning/caring for one. I'd kept freshwater tanks for years and had learned a bit about aquascaping. However the 46 gal. was free and already set up so it was a quick teardown, move and setup again deal. Originally I just piled the rocks in somewhat of a design and made sure they were stable. Then I started researching ... and did more researching ... and am still researching. LOL

I've tweaked the rocks several times to make caves etc. but I know it's not ideal. At some point I may remove everything from the tank and re-do the rockwork but it seems like it would be a HUGE task. I've also learned that I could probably loose a bit of the rock to make the tank a bit more open but I don't want to also loose any of the critters living in the rocks. Just need another tank I guess. ;)
 

Pipes

Active Member
Joined
May 21, 2015
Location
Ingersoll
Do you use the "rule" of thirds? Dividing the tank horizontally and vertically by thirds, for your coral placement. Some people swear by this, but I'm pretty sure "mother nature" doesn't give a dam about esthetics...
 

kapelan

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Location
Kitchener, Ontario
Do you use the "rule" of thirds? Dividing the tank horizontally and vertically by thirds, for your coral placement. Some people swear by this, but I'm pretty sure "mother nature" doesn't give a dam about esthetics...
in a fact he did: on the 1/3 from right he put a big object
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
Nice ... looks amazing. When I got my 46 gal. bowfront a year ago I didn't know much about saltwater tanks really. I'd read some stuff over the years but it's certainly different owning/caring for one. I'd kept freshwater tanks for years and had learned a bit about aquascaping. However the 46 gal. was free and already set up so it was a quick teardown, move and setup again deal. Originally I just piled the rocks in somewhat of a design and made sure they were stable. Then I started researching ... and did more researching ... and am still researching. LOL

I've tweaked the rocks several times to make caves etc. but I know it's not ideal. At some point I may remove everything from the tank and re-do the rockwork but it seems like it would be a HUGE task. I've also learned that I could probably loose a bit of the rock to make the tank a bit more open but I don't want to also loose any of the critters living in the rocks. Just need another tank I guess. ;)

It just take time to learn how to do aquascaping. A lot of it comes down to artistic expression as you need to be creative for a natural look to your tank. I still read everything in can find as you are never done learning in this hobby.
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
in a fact he did: on the 1/3 from right he put a big object

I do stick to it somewhat but not rigidly. I find it you do to much structure it starts to look to planned or perfect if that makes sense. In nature it is not perfect but in a tank you need to design the tank properly so you can trick your eyes for adding depth and effect that you are trying to do. So your brain fills in the blanks. In a tank like a 180 or any tank for that matter if it has braces you can break each section down into its own unit. So say for my 180 each 2X2 section I will follow the rules I mentioned. But each section will be tied to each other so they flow and complement each other. If you don't it will be to noisy looking. To add depth if you look from top down the rocks some of them should be close to the front glass and others way back to add depth. I like to slop it from the substrate to the back glass as well so the top portion of your rocks is furthest from your eyes in some sections. You need to be careful how close your rocks come to the front glass. If to close it will give you a crammed unnatural feel that will kill the depth look of your tank and the rocks come out looking flat with no dimension.
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
Where was this article when I first started? Still very useful now. Thank you for sharing. :cool:

It takes time to learn all these tricks. I wish I had something like this when I started I would have saved myself a lot of headaches. So I decided to type something up from what I have learned so others can get a jump on things. :)
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
Lets change the design of my tank. Say I had decided to put the leather in the center section of my tank. I would not just plop it down. I would take the 2X2 section and off center it based on the 2X2 section and not the whole tank. Ascetically it is more pleasing if you set up the tank this way based on sections and not the tank as a whole. Then tie each section to the closest one. So all flow with each other. If you have a tank that is smaller just base your design on the tank dimensions then as you will not have sections.
 

Kman

Super Active Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Location
KW
I love aquacaping. To me it is a important part of this hobby. I feel more satisfied when it all comes together and I look forward to see what my design looks like in the future.
 
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