I have 2 somewhere (in storage) and the new one didn't have calibration fluid. Hmmm. Maybe I got ripped...
If you've got it use it. DI would be your Zero.So you guys think DI is probably the best option ?
If you've got it use it. DI would be your Zero.
That's how I've always done it.I actually do both.
I test with DI, then calibration fluid at 35PPT.
Adjust to 35PPT then do both steps again.
If I get the 0 and 35 respectively the second time, I am satisfied.
Is this good???![]()
The calibration fluids sold to us in this hobby are not accurate enough, it's like measuring .001" with a yard stick, I've done a lot of testing on this myself and the fact is that the calibration solutions are a waste of money, I know, I wasted about $50 on them. RODI at 0 tds is the way to go.IMO, you should always calibrate using a solution as close as possible to the solution you are measuring because of what Randy Farley-Holmes refers to as the slope mis-calibration that can occur. See his article here for everything you might want to know about calibrating a refractometer and more.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/
Dan
Completely agree.The calibration fluids sold to us in this hobby are not accurate enough, it's like measuring .001" with a yard stick, I've done a lot of testing on this myself and the fact is that the calibration solutions are a waste of money, I know, I wasted about $50 on them. RODI at 0 tds is the way to go.
I actually do both.
I test with DI, then calibration fluid at 35PPT.
Adjust to 35PPT then do both steps again.
If I get the 0 and 35 respectively the second time, I am satisfied.
Is this good???![]()
The calibration fluids sold to us in this hobby are not accurate enough, it's like measuring .001" with a yard stick, I've done a lot of testing on this myself and the fact is that the calibration solutions are a waste of money, I know, I wasted about $50 on them. RODI at 0 tds is the way to go.