Hanna Phosphate checker

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
Tds is zero. I have an inline tds meter and I always check when dumping in water. When I said it reads .03 that is a salt mixed barrel. Not my pure ro/di barrel. I will test that one next to see. Could instamt ocean have some phosphates in it?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 4
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
Also arent sps supposed to have at leaat some phosphates? I'm torn between the two schools of thought. Some people chase the magical 0.0 but others say having some is normal and actually healthier for sps.

Either way .03 is a long way off from where I am right now. Dammit I also need reagents too. I only have 1 left.

Here is my reactors and sump:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLxnlaMdUr8&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 4
 

unibob

Distinguished Member
Website Affiliate
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Location
St Thomas
I can drop you off some regiments at your work if your there this morning.

Send me a txt.
 

Reef Hero

Super Active Member
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Lucan
Whenever i have tested my salt mix pail or rodi container i have always read zero....
You dont need to have absolute 0ppm for sps to grow......ive read that they should be ok with 0.08ppm or less......withthat said it does not imply that sps will not grow in a little higher po4 environment...... some sps like higher levels of po4 than others but u gotta find the sweet spot for them all. Myself, i aim much lower and try to achieve 0ppm and it seems to work well for me but i am now target feeding my lps sometimes which in turns seems to slightly rause the the po4 level a very small amount as well.....
 

TORX

Administrator
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Location
Blenheim, Ontario
Website
www.thefragtank.ca
Checked out your video. You have all 3 daisy chained into each other. I suggest that you make more of a manifold with individual shut off valves so that flow can be controlled to each reactor independently. Primarily so that the BioPellets will have more motion while leaving the nice boil in the GFO. Also, you will need some sort of guard on the BioPellet reactor now that you have removed the stock screen to stop the pellets from being sucked back up the straw into your pump if there is ever any back draw.
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
unibob link said:
I can drop you off some regiments at your work if your there this morning.

Send me a txt.

txt sent

Reef Hero link said:
Whenever i have tested my salt mix pail or rodi container i have always read zero....
You dont need to have absolute 0ppm for sps to grow......ive read that they should be ok with 0.08ppm or less......withthat said it does not imply that sps will not grow in a little higher po4 environment...... some sps like higher levels of po4 than others but u gotta find the sweet spot for them all. Myself, i aim much lower and try to achieve 0ppm and it seems to work well for me but i am now target feeding my lps sometimes which in turns seems to slightly rause the the po4 level a very small amount as well.....

My goal is to have strictly sps so the only feedings will be to the fishies.

Torx link said:
Checked out your video. You have all 3 daisy chained into each other. I suggest that you make more of a manifold with individual shut off valves so that flow can be controlled to each reactor independently. Primarily so that the BioPellets will have more motion while leaving the nice boil in the GFO. Also, you will need some sort of guard on the BioPellet reactor now that you have removed the stock screen to stop the pellets from being sucked back up the straw into your pump if there is ever any back draw.

Great idea! So perhaps like a triple tee off the pump, and then ball valves to control all three? I could then triple tee them back together and get one output stream? I know the plumbing looks like hell right now I just wanted to get things up and running. Do you think the flow is inadequate on the bio pellets? I could zip tie a simple piece of nylon meshing over the input tube to prevent pellets from getting sucked into the pump should there ever be back flow.
 

TORX

Administrator
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Location
Blenheim, Ontario
Website
www.thefragtank.ca
Personally I go for the 'CADlights' reactor look for motion on my pellets. Here is a pic that shows my set up. The manifold is fed from a T in my mag 12 return.

Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk 4


so35zm.jpg
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
The CAD lights reactor seems to have a swirling motion, how the hell is that achieved? I have thought about adding a funnel of some sort and slightly modding the input tubing to give it a slightly different angle for flow. I am pretty much going to ruin one of these reactors getting it right.
 

Poseidon

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Location
SW Ontario
theyangman link said:
[quote author=unibob link=topic=6102.msg58846#msg58846 date=1377261134]
I can drop you off some regiments at your work if your there this morning.

Send me a txt.

txt sent

Reef Hero link said:
Whenever i have tested my salt mix pail or rodi container i have always read zero....
You dont need to have absolute 0ppm for sps to grow......ive read that they should be ok with 0.08ppm or less......withthat said it does not imply that sps will not grow in a little higher po4 environment...... some sps like higher levels of po4 than others but u gotta find the sweet spot for them all. Myself, i aim much lower and try to achieve 0ppm and it seems to work well for me but i am now target feeding my lps sometimes which in turns seems to slightly rause the the po4 level a very small amount as well.....

My goal is to have strictly sps so the only feedings will be to the fishies.

Torx link said:
Checked out your video. You have all 3 daisy chained into each other. I suggest that you make more of a manifold with individual shut off valves so that flow can be controlled to each reactor independently. Primarily so that the BioPellets will have more motion while leaving the nice boil in the GFO. Also, you will need some sort of guard on the BioPellet reactor now that you have removed the stock screen to stop the pellets from being sucked back up the straw into your pump if there is ever any back draw.

Great idea! So perhaps like a triple tee off the pump, and then ball valves to control all three? I could then triple tee them back together and get one output stream? I know the plumbing looks like hell right now I just wanted to get things up and running. Do you think the flow is inadequate on the bio pellets? I could zip tie a simple piece of nylon meshing over the input tube to prevent pellets from getting sucked into the pump should there ever be back flow.
[/quote]

That's what I do, I have a pump with 2 T's off it for pellets and gfo on my frag tank, it allows me to adjust the flow on each reactor accordingly
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
Poseidon link said:
[quote author=theyangman link=topic=6102.msg58838#msg58838 date=1377238692]

I tested my water reservoir, tested out a 0.03 ppm. Which is cool.

Not really. I would trip out if my barrel was .03,
What TDS is your ro water? I sure hope for your sake the barrels arnt leaching anything
[/quote]


So there are three options:

1. The salt that is mixed in there is bring some residual phosphates. I use Instant Ocean "regular". (I will be moving to Instant Ocean Reef Crystals as I am on my last box of regular IO)

2. The tank is leeching. It is a polyethylene tank so it is inert. I cannot see this being the issue, but I will test my RO/DI holding tank to narrow things down.

3. My ro/di is not working properly and I am getting some phosphates from the water itself.


Mind you 0.03 is far better than what my tank is right now anyways, and getting to anything under 0.05 will be my short term goal.
 

TORX

Administrator
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Location
Blenheim, Ontario
Website
www.thefragtank.ca
theyangman link said:
The CAD lights reactor seems to have a swirling motion, how the hell is that achieved? I have thought about adding a funnel of some sort and slightly modding the input tubing to give it a slightly different angle for flow. I am pretty much going to ruin one of these reactors getting it right.

Some people have used a small pop bottle top half or a funnel to mod. Mine is simply the stock reactor with some craft screen that I cut to fit flush with the red stock plate. BRS sells them PhosBan Reactor NPX Screen, but I have a crafty aunt who had a few extra sheets from Micheal's. I think it is Quick Count plastic needlework canvas.
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
Thats what I used originally and this new mod of removing the entire bottom red plate kicks ass. Way more flow

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 4
 

TORX

Administrator
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Location
Blenheim, Ontario
Website
www.thefragtank.ca
theyangman link said:
I used glue instead of teflon tape though. Much sturdier and less chance of leaks.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 4

Great mod. I like it and may do the same at some point today or tomorrow. Only will figure out some mesh collar to stop the pellets from getting into the straw. I would hate to get a pellet sucked into an impeller.
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
There seems to be some debate about adding mesh screen to the inlet tube though after doing some research.

Unless your sump is pristine, the mesh will clog and reduce flow over time. So you gotta be diligent about cleaning. In my mind, the odds of my pump back siphoning and sucking up pellets is a risk I am willing to take I think. And even still, I think a pellet or two would get crushed by the impeller pretty easily.
 

theyangman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
It is a pretty easy mod that is reversible (if you don't use glue).

Some people have the TLF 150 where the bottom red tray does not come off though (it comes glued from factory) in which case it will have to be removed carefully and glued back on if you don't like the mod.
 

Salty Cracker

Administrator
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Location
Rocky Mountains BC
theyangman link said:
It is a pretty easy mod that is reversible (if you don't use glue).

Some people have the TLF 150 where the bottom red tray does not come off though (it comes glued from factory) in which case it will have to be removed carefully and glued back on if you don't like the mod.

If you did use glue, all is not lost, here is a pic for reference
images
 
Top