It's Time To Piece My Plumbing Together....

[MrHermit85]

A valve on return line for servicing the sump, or control return flow.

Interesting, wouldn't you just turn the pump off to service sump? And wouldn't closing a valve while pump is still pushing water through the plumbing put strain on the pump?

I guess if you had an oversized return you may want to dial it back, but I have always just opened up my returns fully...

I am not disagreeing, just trying to see the merits and whether I would want to do something similar on a future tank, it is interesting to hear what other people do.

 

[Sewerat]

Most of our pumps work harder and draw more current when running at full bore then they do if you close a valve on them. I know it seems backwards but test it with a meter and you'll see.

As for service. If you wanted to move sump
Out to clean it or needed something done you can close valve and maintain same water level for whatever reason. I do it just cause it's a cheap valve to throw in if you ever need it it already there. I don't use an expensive valve there

 

[sunnykita]

4hummer has a great thread on how he did his.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2379295

Wow ! that is a great explanation for the build ! the best ever, even I understood it completely, and I absolutely love the RODI tank and salt mixing tank builds too !

 

[MrHermit85]

Most of our pumps work harder and draw more current when running at full bore then they do if you close a valve on them. I know it seems backwards but test it with a meter and you'll see.

As for service. If you wanted to move sump
Out to clean it or needed something done you can close valve and maintain same water level for whatever reason. I do it just cause it's a cheap valve to throw in if you ever need it it already there. I don't use an expensive valve there

You learn something everyday. I guess one could consider the back pressure as load and thus resistance is reduced as pump has to spin slower therefore reducing the amount of current... thanks that makes complete sense Sewerat... I guess I am just remembering how my last pump complained when.i restricted the output.

 

[Easto]

FYI, a 1" Gate Valve at Plasco is going to run a little over $40 with taxes.

Something like this one:

 

[MrHermit85]

FYI, a 1" Gate Valve at Plasco is going to run a little over $40 with taxes.

Something like this one: /QUOTE]

Yeah their fittings are definitley quite expensive!!! I didn't mind though as I purchased a couple lengths of grey pvc from them too which was very reasonably priced which made my plumbing look quite nice. I think all in all my plumbing including two valves (1 ball and 1 gate), two unions and a bunch of fittings cost about $100.

 

[Easto]

Does everyone here use a check valve on their return line?

I don't quite understand why each of the drain lines has a Sanitary T. I understand why the trickle line does because you need somewhere to attach the 1/4" tubing. But I am not seeing why the siphon and emergency lines require the "T". Can I just use an elbow at this section, or is there actually a reason why all 3 drains use the "T" fitting?

 

[AdInfinitum]

Don't use a check valve on your return. They kill flow and will fail when you need them.

Your system must be designed with siphon breaks on the returns and enough reserve capacity in the sump to take care of shut downs and power or pump failures. Depending on a check valve instead of using proper design is asking for a flood.

 

[100gallon]

I can tell you I wish I would have installed a gate on my full siphon line....the ball valve was cheap so I used it but it is very finicky about fine tuning....should have gone gate.

Sent via Samsung Galaxy S4 on Tapatalk

 

[zoomster]

Hey easto,
I just finished my new build including the bean animal overflows using the exact same diagrams you have there.
The T's are there on all 3 for access incase of a clog or to clean them.