JMBRETTLERs 220GAL Bedroom Build

[jmbrettler]

Hi everybody!

Welcome to my INSANE 220 Gallon bedroom tank build!

The tank is 84 X 24 X26 and has two closed loops! The lights will be Aquatinics constellation, with 14 t5 bulbs. Euro Reef Skimmer with GenX4100 pump. Saline Solutions 46 Gal Sump. 2X wavy sea units. Deltec calcium reactor.

I am still deciding how to stock the tank. Either mixed reef or predator tank.

Thanks for stopping by to look!

 

[jmbrettler]

Now, I am trying to wrap my head around plumbing and pumps for this 220 gallon beast and there are two things I need to figure out.
Which pump or pumps to use for the two closed loops, and which pump to use for the sump return pump.

Since I will be sleeping beside the tank, I would like to minimize noise where possible. Also looking to strike a balance between electricity consumption and optimal flow rates.

I need to plumb the closed loops and the sump return.

The previous owner used three pumps, one blue line 40 for each closed loop and one blue line 70 for the sump return pump. I have all 3.

I was hoping I could get away with running two of the blue line 40's. One for both closed loops and the other as the sump return pump. The blue line 40 pumps are rated for 660gph @ 6ft @ 120 watts, per pump and I am proposing using one pump to run two loop returns @ 1".

Could a blue line 40 run both closed loop drains/returns?

Also,

Would a blue line 40 be able to provide the DT with desired turnover? (there are 2x 1.5"drains and 2x 1" returns)

Option 1: Run all three pumps like the previous owner did for maximum power and results
Option 2: Run both closed loops off one blue line 40 pump and run the sump return off the other blue line 40 pump for best power savings
Option 3: Run the sump return on the blue line 70 pump, and run both closed loops from one 40pump (and save one 40 pump as a backup pump)

Please help me choose! What would you do?

Thank you so much for any input you can offer!

J

 

[TORX]

I choose option 4:

IF you want quiet, do 2xJebao DC 12000's, 951g - 3170g at 85W each. Or reduce flow and go with 2 Jebao DC 6000 475g-1585g at 40 watts each.

They are controllable with an Apex to Jebao cable (custom DIY). They are also minimal on heat transfer and can use them internal and external. Internally, they will muffled any additional noise that the pump may make. I have heard these running, and they are dead silent, but I have not slept beside one.

 

[jmbrettler]

Thanks for your response!

I will have to take a look at those pumps and read some reviews. I have already reached the maximum allowable budget says the GF, so I might have to sell the blue line pumps to make that happen.

 

[TORX]

Blue line will be great. But if noise and running costs are in question, then I would go with the Jebao's. They are pretty cheap to Just $10...or at least that is what we tell our spouses things cost

 

[jmbrettler]

Blue line will be great. But if noise and running costs are in question, then I would go with the Jebao's. They are pretty cheap to Just $10...or at least that is what we tell our spouses things cost

8)  love it.

 

[Bayinaung]

Just $10...or at least that is what we tell our spouses things cost

lol good tip. filing away for future use.

 

[Bayinaung]

I was going to ask - is THAT a big tank that's already in your bedroom? How are you keeping your spouse happy about a second one in the bedroom? lol.

 

[jmbrettler]

well, thats my 90, my current and soon to be old SW setup.

the deal is once the 220 its ready, livestock will switch from the 90 to the 220 and then the 90 has to go.

although I am still toying with the idea of persuading her to keep both. It would involve sneakily making my first fish something aggressive but beautiful, perhaps a trigger.

then just before the livestock changeover happen to come across an article that says poor nemo will be eaten by mr. trigger.

hope she is in love with the trigger fish by that point and casually bring up the idea that we could have two tanks

in reality though I need room for computer desk so the 90 does need to go LOL

right now bed is in the middle of the room hahaha  and will stay in the middle of the room until I can move the tank off the stand to pour a level concrete base, plumb the system, cycle it and get rid of the 90.

waiting for the snow/ice to melt outside...

J

 

[Bayinaung]

lmao. that's a damn fine plan. Another one for future use.

 

[jmbrettler]

I decided to go with 90's instead of 45's because there is barely enough room under the stand already and it will make for a much cleaner look.
I have threaded pieces that can come apart so the plumbing can be disassembled and cleaned from time to time very easily.
The only thing missing here is the 1 1/2" Gate Valve which I can't find anywhere and have to wait 3 weeks for backorder. Nothing has been glued in yet.

How far into the sump should these drains go? Should they basically be touching the bottom of the sump? 1" from the bottom? 2"?

Thanks !

Jacob


P.s I bought underground PVC conduit instead of PVC potable pipe because I am an idiot. Once I get all the measurements perfect I will go buy the correct pipe and swap the pieces.

 

[curiousphil]

What type of drain are you building?  I can't tell from the pics you've provided.  But if it's a herbie or beananimal, and utilizes a full syphon, you'll get the best performance by terminating the pipe 1" below the sump water level.

 

[jmbrettler]

Sorry I forgot to include a picture of what is above the bulkhead 

Yes I will have 1 drain @ full siphon! I will make sure it drops off 1" below the water level in the sump! Thanks so much for the info!

What about the emergency drain, what length into the sump makes sense?

 

[curiousphil]

For the emergency you are probably fine with whatever.  It helps having the siphon pipe terminate at that depth so that it doesn't cause too much back pressure and allows the siphon to start more easily.  The emergency just needs to move water .

 

[jmbrettler]

Hey all!

A few small updates on the build.

The concrete slab is done! It came out great.

Materials List:
8X1X3 pieces of wood for the frame
12 wood screws
Carpenters Glue
Backing Board
2X Self Leveling Concrete bags (50lbs each)

After triple measuring the length and width of the stand we first created the box by screwing the wood together.

Then we applied thick glue to the wood and attached our base. We used weights to ensure good contact, clamps probably would have been better.
Then we flipped the box around so that we can pour concrete in it! We also ran some masking tape along the inside seams as added insurance to make sure the cement wouldn't leak out.

We mixed the cement to specifications 6.1L per 50lb bag, mix with electric drill @ 600rpm for 2minutes. Be aware temperature can affect the self leveling ability of the product as well as curing time. We did one bag and let it cure for one day. Then poured the next bag the following day. We also used dowels to compress the backing board to the ground in the low spots but I forgot to take pictures.

After pulling the box off the concrete, sand down the edges and voila!