Led build

harleymike

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Location
Courtright, Ontario
building 3 led fixtures
Got my led kit 2 days ago, and a few more led's from members. Because I screwed up...LOL.
Started on 12 led fixture for 15 gallon tank.
See pics below.
3 10k whites, 3 uv's, 6 RB
On one dimmer.
Made heatsink out of channel aluminum from Lowe''s in the states.
Measures 16" by 5"
Going too add fan after.
 

MrHermit85

Active Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Location
London, Ontario
Apparently if it's true UV your corals will produce interesting colours. The colours are a result from them protecting themselves from the UV. But as I said it has to be true UV for this to happen which is 340-400nm I think. The light is not entirely visible to human eyes which is why you will find the LED seems dim when on. So the light won't do much immediately but over time could could theoretically cause interesting colours.

This is just from what I understood from my research before using UV LED chips and I don't know whether there are any long term studies proving this
 

Neopimp

Website Doctor
Staff member
Website Admin
Joined
Jun 9, 2014
Location
Sarnia
Led build

True uv LEDs are rare and expensive.  True violet is what we are talking about adding to the fixtures, and its what any company has on their fixture.  405-430 or 430 -450.  I'm not going to pay 30 +bucks an led to give my coral a tan.

I am missing that 420nm spike in my fixtures, that's what I am after
 

KBennett

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Location
Brantford
Actinic isn't really a frequency range.  It is used to describe photosynthetic light.  The LED manufacturers call 420 violet.

From Wikipedia:
Actinic light is either light that affects photographic film,[1] or will facilitate photosynthesis or stimulate light sensitive species.



Contents  [hide]
1 Photography Use
2 Medical Use
3 Aquarium Use
4 Notes
5 References


Photography Use[edit]

The term was first commonly used in early photography to distinguish light that would expose the monochrome films from light that would not. A non-actinic safe-light (e.g. red or amber) could be used in a darkroom without risk of exposing (fogging) light-sensitive films, plates or papers.

Early 'non colour-sensitive' (NCS) films, plates and papers were only sensitive to the high energy end of the visible spectrum from green to UV. This would render a print of the 'red' areas as a very dark tone. Such light was actinic light. Yellow and red light was non-actinic. Xenon flash lamps are generally highly actinic, as is daylight.

In the first half of the 20th century, developments in film technology produced films (orthochromatic and panchromatic) sensitive to red and yellow light and extended that through to near infra-red light. These gave a truer equivalent rendering of colour (hue) as a light, medium or dark tone, according to how we believe the human eye experiences it.

In photography, therefore, actinic light must now be referenced to the photographic material in question.
 

Victoss

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Location
Kitchener ON
The true UV's would be under 400 but from my understanding most photosynthesis of phytoplankton drops off at right about 400nm (such as Chlorophyll a and b). Their peaks are more in the 400-500 range which is why we use al ot of blues and violets ("violet UV"). As for protective pigments, you probably can change colours slightly but I have never really looked into that and never really cared to buy expensive UV leds.  :)
 

unibob

Distinguished Member
Website Affiliate
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Location
St Thomas
harleymike link said:
Got them hooked up. Very white color.
Also potentameter works good. But when i turn it all the way off they pulse on and off.
is this normal

It's playing mind games with you mike lol.

From my understanding when we dim our led, they are slowing down the pulse rate of the led, turn up the pot and they blink quicker and emit "more light" ?

I'm sure someone will chime in who has built a fixture to get them to quit that dang blinking.
 

Victoss

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Location
Kitchener ON
harleymike link said:
Got them hooked up. Very white color.
Also potentameter works good. But when i turn it all the way off they pulse on and off.
is this normal

I have PWM drives but on my biocube when they get down to ~6% or so (right before they turn off) they sometimes pulse slowly, I think this more has to do with the driver trying to decide if they should still be on or not. Does not do this on my display tank which has basically all the same drivers n controller.
 

KBennett

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Location
Brantford
harleymike link said:
Got them hooked up. Very white color.
Also potentameter works good. But when i turn it all the way off they pulse on and off.
is this normal

What are you driving them with?  If it is just a variable voltage supply, the forward voltage lowers as it cools - they turn on, heat up, vf goes up and they shut off again.

This could also happen with a constant current supply that is on the edge of Vf.  I think most will actually shut down when it gets too low.  How many do you have per string and what are their forward voltages?
 

harleymike

Super Active Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Location
Courtright, Ontario
It works fine. Dimms all the way down. But If I shut them off they will blink on and off. I"M not going too worry about it. They work fine otherwise.
Tomorrow , its time too make the rb stripe for the big tank.
 
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