New System Plans

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reeffreak

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Ok so here it goes , plans are to have a DT custom made with the specs L36xW26xH22 with 2x 1.5'' drains with 2x3/4 returns all holes will be drilled in the bottom glass the overflow will be running the whole length of the tank leaving me with 24 width of room for aquascaping .
WIll also be running a 43 gallon frag  tank with specs 36x23x12 with 1.5'' drain already drilled and a 3/4 return over the back , hoping to have this running with a 75 gallon Sump  which leaves me with 210 gallons total .

For equipment I have a few ideas already but other I have no clue what to look into , for lighting I plan on going with 2x sunlight supply tek 6 bulb units , for a skimmer I was looking at vertex wa thinking 180 but I will have to go one step up on that unless I opt for a smaller Sump  which could possibly happen but thats in the future . Now where Im stuck is what pump to use for return there will be approxiamtely 2800 gph draining threw 3 1.5'' drains into one Sump  and hopefully one pump pushing that back threw 3 returns .

There will be more equipment obviously comming into the picture but for now this is my start , Im down for criticsm I will definetly need some help on this system for sure as it will be my first time running 2 tanks threw one Sump  and having a frag  system so Im pretty excited . Please give me some pointers if you see something you would change . This will be a slow process more then likely so pics will be up as progress moves along .
 
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marks69

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you could use a reeflo dart or snapper for your return.  i have a hybrid which will be both, either 2400gph or 3600 gph.  i would up the skimmer to something about 30% more.  they are usually overrated.  for lights mabye save up for led's.  you pay more upfront but will save in a year or so.  do a diy thing.  for the return run 1 1/2 till you split off for the tanks, you get better flow and can upgrade later if needed
 
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reeffreak

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for the skimmer I going to go with a Vertex In -250 and for lighting I thik im going to stick with the 2 tek units they are very cheap and I ran one on my last setup and there amazing . Thanks for the return pumps ideas I will be checking into this right now lol .
 
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reeffreak

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marks69 do you know anyone who carrries either of those pumps , was also looking at a mag 24.
 
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shayneh

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Mag series suck (high wattage draw, high heat and not reliable for external plumbing). I know marks69 has a reeflo hybrid that has about 3 minutes use on it and you would be wise to snap it up (I tried to steal if from him before I bought my snapper).

"Now where Im stuck is what pump to use for return there will be approxiamtely 2800 gph draining threw 3 1.5'' drains into one Sump  and hopefully one pump pushing that back threw 3 returns ."

I would really suggest that you look at using the reeflo hybrid to run a closed loop and an oceans motions 4 way and then independently run a smaller volume of water through your sump (say 1000gph) using something like an eheim compact plus pump (energy efficiency and high flow).

Another option is to have your tank built from high quality cell cast acrylic (lighter, cheaper, stronger, and clearer than glass....although it does scratch easier....but they can be buffed out too). I would suggest a 24inch external overflow built on the back of the tank and then you can plum in a bean animal overflow (super silent).

For lighting I would look for a 10 bulb unit althought the Tek twin 6 would work. You could also build a monster sump with similar dimensions and multiple access points and then place your frags there also (one less tank to maintain).

Just my thoughts in a nutshell!!! 
 
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reeffreak

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I have never eally looked into closed loop , wouldnt I have to run 2 pumps for that one for the closed loops then I would have to have another to feed my reef tank which is already drilled and I have that tank already so having a frag tank in a massive sump is out of the question , I want the 75 gallon sump to hopefully be enough room for everything .
 
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reeffreak

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little lost of the closed loop , so i would have to have 4 holes for returns right ? then one drain hole to feed the reeflo which feeds the OM 4 way which then returns to tank , then in top of that I would have to have another drain hole which goes to sump then another pump which then returns back to display , then just split off the return pump from sump to frag tank , lol sorry i suck at typing shit out
 

pulpfiction1

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was gonna do it to this tank i just got up and running,but i go through so many that i didnt want to have something that wont sell in the future,some might not understand the flow gains from it,i will just pvc some over the top at a later date
 

pulpfiction1

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reeffreak link said:

to make it a little clearer,i was only inferring to 2 holes drilled in the back or on each end,one to the pump the other from the pump to a 4 way outlet on the inside of the tank,but even a single inlet would be massive gains in water movement and quality
imo
 
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reeffreak

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well i kno its not bad the gains are great flow and the loss of powerheads is a bonus just trying to figure out the plumbing and hole placment is crazy I wish I had a program on my computer where I could sketch it out .
 
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reeffreak

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i think im going to pass on the closed loop system and just go for 2 drains and 2 returns
 

shipwreck

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Apr 1, 2011
If you want your return pump to be 2600gph then your sump will need to be much larger.  Typically you want your sump turnover to be less then 10x, with a gentle flow through to allow stuff to settle out of the water column.  You want the tank to have the high turbulant flow.  This is typically acheived by having a return pump and then a closed loop pump or power heads in the tank.  At 2600gph through a 75g sump that will only be about 1/2 full (you have to leave room for 2 tanks to drain in poweroff) you will have a 70x turnover in your sump.  You definately want a smaller pump for that sump, or the bubbles will not settle out and both tanks will just turn to a froth.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the closed loop idea.  The OM 4 way is plumbed correctly can create some very good water patterns that will help keep your solids in suspension which will move the to them overflow where they will settle out in the sump.  A closed loop has very little physical impact inside the tank like the other options.  You can plumb a closed loop without any drilled holes but I would recommend at least the drain to the pump be drilled.  You should look at the forums on the oceansmotions.com site to get a better understanding and see more examples of the possibilities.

You can create flow inside the tank without closed loops using powerheads instead.  The biggest drawback to all types of powerheads is the amount of space they take in the tank.  Also if you want one hidden in the rocks you will have to rip apart the structure when it is time for cleaning.  There are power heads available in all price ranges which can make them a good starting choice to very expensive.  The basics like a koralina can provide a good amount of flow and can be controlled.  After that there is the tunze units, similar to koralina but stronger, more flow, better control options and much more expensive.  There is lots of people now that like the MP10,20,40,etc.  These units became popular because the motor is outside of the tank and magnetically couples through the glass to the impeller.  They are controllable like the tunzes but their big drawback is that because of their mounting method you typically are limited to the ends of the tank.  Tunze also makes a wavebox which uses a PH inside a box with a controller to pulse on/off which when tuned will create a 1-2" wave on the tank.  This system makes corals sway nicely but the box is very large and bulky. 

I am a believer of the closed loop methods and will be using a new OM sytem on my new 400g tank as the primary flow patterns.  Whatever you decide you definitely need a lower flow return pump combined with a second system for your design.
 
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shayneh

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What kind of pump were you planning to run on the closed loop? If you run a snapper I would suggest drilling for 2 X 1.5inch bulkheads (intakes) about 8-10 inches from the top of the tank running down to a 1.5 to 2inch Y (wye) as close to the pump as you can get it to match the 2inch pump intake. Then from the outlet side of the pump you could run a 1.5 inch line to a 1.5-1.5 Y (wye) to another set of 1.5-1.5 Y's (wye's) and reducing to 1inch righ at the bulkheads. I am putting 2 of mine in about 6inches from the front corners on the bottom of the tank and the other 2 on the back about 8-10 inches from the bottom below the intakes. This should create some turbulent flow and will also help keep any detritus in suspension and allow the overflow to deal with it accordingly. As for your concerns that drilling and plumbing for a closed loop will decrease value or saleability. This is not the case as most serious hobbiests eventually wind up at this juncture.
 
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