purchase advice...

Status
Not open for further replies.

Poseidon

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Location
SW Ontario
lol i found a better one... EXACT SAME company... with the EXACT same product on ebay for 25$ cheaper :)
 

Darryl_V

Super Active Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Location
Woodstock, Ontario
Far inferior product to what BRS sells.......

First they are not telling you the brand of filters and filters are everything.....the body is a just a shell.....and there is a big difference between quality filters and cheap filters. 

They claim 99.5% rejection.  Is that on the membrane or the system?  If they say that is for the membrane than I would want manufacturers information to back that up.....the dow filmtec membranes are the defacto standard and they only get 98% rejection.....everyone else gets less.

They use a 1micron sediment as the first stage....if you have a lot of sediment like me you would be swapping that out monthly.  Again no manufacturer information which means no information on the quality.

Second stage is coconut shell granular carbon........not good enough for reef tanks IMO.

DI stage has a cheap housing and the DI is not nuclear grade nor colour changing (if you want that).  The DI stage should use the normal 10" clear canister and nuclear grade resin.

If this is your first unit and do not need a really good product I would say go for it but you really get better value (quality and price) over at BRS.
 

spyd

Super Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Location
Kitchener, Ontario
I agree with the above statements. Go BRS or Puratek or something along those lines. Ideally, something that has close to a 1:1 good water to bad water ratio is a lot better as you're not flushing money down the drain. BRS has great filters and the unit is very well constructed. The Puratek units are more expensive, however, they include a booster pump, are 1:1 ratio, PLC controlled with built in TDS meter and a solenoid for auto shut off. You would still need a float valve but that is all. It also performs automatic membrane flushing and is 90G / day output. Either one is far superior to the maxwaterflow units.
 

Poseidon

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Location
SW Ontario
wish you guys woulda commented earlier... lol...

well i ordered the maxwater one last night... came to 150$ total, shipping and taxes included.... Ill have to see what happens.... :(

i currently am running just straight tap water ( well water) and my tank has really high phosphates, thus i have a red slime problem and its pissing me off.... money is an issue as ive sank way to much already into this tank... but we'll have to see if this ro-di filter helps...
i bought a Kent Maxxum RO filter off kijiji and its missing parts and has a broken plastic canister and i dont know the first thing about it so i just figured id sell it and buy a brand new one....
 

Victoss

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Location
Kitchener ON
It should be fine, might not be as efficient as the others but it will still get the job done. The TDS may go up faster as you use it then the other brands but if its still under 10 then your good. Another thing I always look at when buying an RODI unit is how easily I can get the replacement filters when they expire.
 

Darryl_V

Super Active Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Location
Woodstock, Ontario
The replacement filters are standard 10" which are all the same across brands so how easily you can find replacement filters shouldnt be a concern when buying an RO/DI unit......
 

Royal Aquariums

Inactive Since Crash
INACTIVE
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Website
www.royalaquariums.ca
Victoss link said:
It should be fine, might not be as efficient as the others but it will still get the job done. The TDS may go up faster as you use it then the other brands but if its still under 10 then your good. Another thing I always look at when buying an RODI unit is how easily I can get the replacement filters when they expire.

You should always try to have 0 TDS
 

Darryl_V

Super Active Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Location
Woodstock, Ontario
I will echo what these guys said...... 0tds is best.  But I will also say that you may be able to get away with 10ppm....problem is not knowing what that 10ppm is....if its high in toxic metals or phosphate it could be very bad for your tank, or it could not be problematic at all.  Also just because the substances that make up that 10ppm is benign now doesnt mean that it can't change and become problematic. 

0ppm is just the safest because there is no way to be sure otherwise.
 

Victoss

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Location
Kitchener ON
Well I've heard in the past up to 5 was fine but I was being a little cheap saying up to 10 would be fine. My thought is if your water was originally 300+ then 10 couldn't be all that bad but really its gonna take a year to get to 1 any ways depending on how heavily you WC so replacing is pretty cheap to do in the first place.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top