Jewel
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- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Location
- Wingham Ontario
Is it possible to regenerate DiResin and GFO? Does any one do it and how? Thanks
Regenerating Gfo And Di Resin
- Thread starter Jewel
- Start date
Jewel
Guest
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Location
- Wingham Ontario
Thanks Cal
To regenerate High Capacity GFO I use 1N NaOH solution, I mix 40g of lye in 1l of RODI water.
I get the lye at my local Home Hardware in a 3l jug for about $30. It's pure lye for making soap.
I mix the lye by adding 160 grams to 4 litres RODI in a BRS 1 gal bulk 2 part container, I keep the container submerged in a sink full of cold water because it gets very hot, shake the container regularly to get it mixed, this will regen alot of HC HFO. Wear good eye protection when mixing and using this solution!
I put @ 1 cup of HC GFO in a 1/2 gallon BRS container then cover the HC GFO @ 1 inch of 1N NaOH solution, let this stand for 24 hours then drain it off and repeat then repeat again, after the third soaking drain off the 1N NaOH solution and rinse with 1 gallon of RODI. I fill the container half way, shake and drain, after a couple rinses I fill the container and let it stand for an hour to let it leach then drain, then use the remaining RODI as a final rinse. You can use it right away or dry it in a glass container in the oven at 250 F.
The HC GFO can be regened about 10x.
To regenerate DI resin I use I use a solution of lye and a solution of acid.
One 10 inch cartridge contains about 750ml resin, I add a little extra for spillage (I do 3 at a time). Add 100ml lye to 350 RODI for 750ml resin (1 cartridge), THIS WILL GET VERY HOT! so keep it submerged in cold water and swish it around to get it mixed. Place the resin in a plastic or glass container, I re purposed an artemia hatching cone for this, add the lye solution and stir, the Anion will float, carefully separate the Anion, this is where the hatching cone comes in handy as I can drain the Cation off the bottom with the valve. You can use a soup ladle or turkey baster to take the Anion off the top, set the Anion aside.
Rinse the Cation through a coffee filter with 1 gallon of RODI water, I use some fine nylon mesh I got at a fabric store and plastic strainer for this.
Mix the acid solution, add 180ml muriatic acid (I also get this at Home Hardware) to 180ml RODI water the add this to the cation and stir, allow the Anion and Cation to stand for 1 hour then rinse both with a gallon of RODI water and place in a ziplock bag and mix the 2 together, I store it in the fridge till I use it.
If you mix the used lye and acid solutions together they will nuetralize each other.
You must take care when doing this and wear protective clothing but it is very easy to do.
The DI resin can be regened many many times however it may lose its color changing ability after repeated regens.
I see no difference in the regened resin vs new resin.
I get the lye at my local Home Hardware in a 3l jug for about $30. It's pure lye for making soap.
I mix the lye by adding 160 grams to 4 litres RODI in a BRS 1 gal bulk 2 part container, I keep the container submerged in a sink full of cold water because it gets very hot, shake the container regularly to get it mixed, this will regen alot of HC HFO. Wear good eye protection when mixing and using this solution!
I put @ 1 cup of HC GFO in a 1/2 gallon BRS container then cover the HC GFO @ 1 inch of 1N NaOH solution, let this stand for 24 hours then drain it off and repeat then repeat again, after the third soaking drain off the 1N NaOH solution and rinse with 1 gallon of RODI. I fill the container half way, shake and drain, after a couple rinses I fill the container and let it stand for an hour to let it leach then drain, then use the remaining RODI as a final rinse. You can use it right away or dry it in a glass container in the oven at 250 F.
The HC GFO can be regened about 10x.
To regenerate DI resin I use I use a solution of lye and a solution of acid.
One 10 inch cartridge contains about 750ml resin, I add a little extra for spillage (I do 3 at a time). Add 100ml lye to 350 RODI for 750ml resin (1 cartridge), THIS WILL GET VERY HOT! so keep it submerged in cold water and swish it around to get it mixed. Place the resin in a plastic or glass container, I re purposed an artemia hatching cone for this, add the lye solution and stir, the Anion will float, carefully separate the Anion, this is where the hatching cone comes in handy as I can drain the Cation off the bottom with the valve. You can use a soup ladle or turkey baster to take the Anion off the top, set the Anion aside.
Rinse the Cation through a coffee filter with 1 gallon of RODI water, I use some fine nylon mesh I got at a fabric store and plastic strainer for this.
Mix the acid solution, add 180ml muriatic acid (I also get this at Home Hardware) to 180ml RODI water the add this to the cation and stir, allow the Anion and Cation to stand for 1 hour then rinse both with a gallon of RODI water and place in a ziplock bag and mix the 2 together, I store it in the fridge till I use it.
If you mix the used lye and acid solutions together they will nuetralize each other.
You must take care when doing this and wear protective clothing but it is very easy to do.
The DI resin can be regened many many times however it may lose its color changing ability after repeated regens.
I see no difference in the regened resin vs new resin.
Jewel
Guest
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Location
- Wingham Ontario
It's sounds a bit complicated but I think I can do it, the idea is to save money and try something new, thanks CaL I appreciate this very much.
WE do this daily at work on an pair of industrial size Demin trains. 1 Cation 1 Anion then a Mixed bed which is what our DI systems are. Mine are 20 ft high but the process is almost identical. We use backwards flow to spereate the two resins apart, their densities are different when then are exhausted. Cation gets dilute sulphuric and Anion get dilute NAOH. Then we mix it all back up with air blasting through the vessel.
You may get better results by not exposing your cation resin to lye. But the convinenice of making it float vs trying to suck off the top layer after through mixing probably makes up for that
You may get better results by not exposing your cation resin to lye. But the convinenice of making it float vs trying to suck off the top layer after through mixing probably makes up for that
backwards flow, like updraft through a reactor?WE do this daily at work on an pair of industrial size Demin trains. 1 Cation 1 Anion then a Mixed bed which is what our DI systems are. Mine are 20 ft high but the process is almost identical. We use backwards flow to spereate the two resins apart, their densities are different when then are exhausted. Cation gets dilute sulphuric and Anion get dilute NAOH. Then we mix it all back up with air blasting through the vessel.
You may get better results by not exposing your cation resin to lye. But the convinenice of making it float vs trying to suck off the top layer after through mixing probably makes up for that