Rodi Filters.

[reeferkeeper420]

Is there a certain way the filters should be in order?? Or does it matter? Currently i had them carbon sediment carbon? But after some looking around i see alot of setups done sediment carbon carbon. It looks like i uave 2 5 micron carbon but diff styles and a sediment. Changing filters now so help would be great. Thanks
Riley

 

[barebottomcouple]

hay riley we are on a well and I run a 5 micron then a 1 micron then carbon block then membrane then 2 different canisters of di resins what pressure do you run yours

 

[reeferkeeper420]

Whatever pressuer is coming out of my water line lol i couldnt tell you. Im on town water.

 

[Sewerat]

Should always stack your filters from biggest to lowest. So always start with your sediment filter, then to your next lowest carbon filter and so on. I run my house thru a 50 screen, 25 sediment, 10 sediment and then thru the rodi filtration filters of 5, 5 carbon and then rodi stuff

 

[reeferkeeper420]

Is this a sediment?its a ribbed, 5 micron pp cartridge? If not i have 3 carbons..

 

[reeferkeeper420]

And then i have these 2 carbons.

 

[reeferkeeper420]

This is the ribbed 5 micron im referrring to.

 

[Adam Robinson]

How often should the filters be changed on your unit??

 

[barebottomcouple]

yes , sounds like sediment all my sediment filters are ribbed carbon block usually has a net pattern around it

 

[barebottomcouple]

I change my sediment every 3 to 5 months depending on the look of them carbon block the same and the di resins both every 6 months and membrane works out to 10 to 12 months

 

[Sewerat]

Yes the one is or should be your first filter. The ribbed is sediment. Then should be a carbon block. Now unless you have 4 filter canisters you should have water go thru membrane then over to DI resin canister and then out. If you have 4 canisters you should get a 10 micron carbon and then a 5 micron one. The smaller micron you can filter, the longer your RO membrane will last.


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[unibob]

Should always stack your filters from biggest to lowest. So always start with your sediment filter, then to your next lowest carbon filter and so on. I run my house thru a 50 screen, 25 sediment, 10 sediment and then thru the rodi filtration filters of 5, 5 carbon and then rodi stuff

+1 to sediment, then Highest micron carbon, then next highest and so on.


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[reeferkeeper420]

Well they were apparently set up correctly lol

 

[Reef Hero]

To be completely honest I highly doubt it would be a big deal if the carbon filter was before the plain filter... Especially if both are 5 micron..... Most ro kits never had two carbon filters until lately now it seems like it is the standard.....I run mine 5micron poly sediment, 5 micron cto carbon, 0.6 micron cto carbon, ro membrane, and then two stages of di filters...
Originally I bought my setup from max water but now I have kinda pieced it together to create a nice 6 stage system with gauges, flush kit and holding tank. Etc
Essentially the efficiency you will get from your kit is going to come down to the filters, membrane, flow restrictor, and water pressure. I never bothered with inline tds meters because I have a nice handheld that I can easily test water with instead.... I found them to be kind of less important as well as the flush kit.... Probably not really required..... At the end of the day you want 0tds and you can spend lots of $$ on the fancy rodi unit with all the whoopla but don't forget that things break so it's always been my opinion that if you don't need it then why bother having it....


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[reeferkeeper420]

Yeah ive been debating on adding another canister or 2 to extend the life on some of the filters, or just to give me 0tds longer lol. I was def overdue for a filter change, my sediment was like a dark rust colour when i pulled it out...probably been a year since i changed them, membrane even longer. And ive used and overflowed alot of water lol. I have to keep on them now, and need to get myself a handheld tds meter. Where i buy my filters i think i only have 2 choice for carbon .5 micron meshed one and a hard plastic GAC one. But i guess 0tds is 0 tds regardless of what kinda filters are on there.

 

[Reef Hero]

Yeah ive been debating on adding another canister or 2 to extend the life on some of the filters, or just to give me 0tds longer lol. I was def overdue for a filter change, my sediment was like a dark rust colour when i pulled it out...probably been a year since i changed them, membrane even longer. And ive used and overflowed alot of water lol. I have to keep on them now, and need to get myself a handheld tds meter. Where i buy my filters i think i only have 2 choice for carbon .5 micron meshed one and a hard plastic GAC one. But i guess 0tds is 0 tds regardless of what kinda filters are on there.

What two extra canisters are you thinking about adding?


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[reeferkeeper420]

Maybe an extra sediment or carbon and another DI probably.

 

[Sewerat]

Think of each stage as one more level the next one won't have to filter out so duplication of a system will have little to no effect short of longer time for filter change, but then you'd just have to do two at a time anyways so no cost savings. If you want to make a còst effect system and an effective system. Start by prefiltering your incoming water to your rodi system with a 2 stage filter system with a 25 and a 10 sediment. Then you can start your rodi system with a 5 sediment and go to a 1 carbon. Now different types of carbon filters do in fact remove certain things from your water column, but you need to know what to remove for full effect. You will need to get your results for your pure untreated water to know what is right. As you build the system with better filters they become more expensive so that is why you use the higher number sediment ones first in line so those get changed put more frequently allowing your expensive filters to work more effectively and longer saving you money in the long run.

 

[Reef Hero]

Maybe an extra sediment or carbon and another DI probably.

I wouldn't add extra filtration unless it is necessary to achieve 0tds. Adding an extra di resin is only required if you are not seeing 0tds after one stage of di. Adding a second stage of di is not going to preserve anything that comes before it.... Once di is depleted the first thing released back into the water is exactly what was absorbed in the first place.... So if you are seeing 0tds then adding another stage is a waste of $$ IMO.
Also, one thing that never ceases to amaze me is why people bother buying any ro membrane rated higher than 75gpd.... Unless you need to produce more water than that a day, buying a ro membrane above 75gpd is going to allow twice the amount of particles to go unfiltered past your membrane, relying on the di or post carbon to filter it.... Essentially, depleting your di twice as fast and possibly even requiring a second stage to get to 0tds....


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[Reef Hero]

There is a lot of really good articles regarding RODI water and the filtration process on R2R and RC..... Worth the read if you are buying a kit or replacing filters....


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