To Qt....or Not Qt...

[sirhc13]

Going to be picking up a Powder Blue and Blonde Naso from a store that I know does a 2 week QT. So my question is....will they be more stressed going into my 35g QT for a min 2 weeks at my place, or if they look healthy would they be better going into my 220?

 

[Nonuser]

Probably an unpopular opinion. But I would just toss them in. If they look healthy. I think ick only happens to noobs

 

[derrick orosz]

I never use to QT then that came back and bit me in the ass

 

[monizb]

I have never used a qt I would toss them in the big tank less stress moving from the qt from store then qt home then big tank

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[sunnykita]

and feed garlic !

 

[amps]

QT them. A niced sized tank with dim lighting and no other fish to fight for space with shouldn't be stressful. It also gives you some time to guarantee that they'll eat for you and to get them onto whatever diet you use.

I've heard horror stories of peoples tanks being wiped out by disease after years of running. Apparently Tangs are almost guaranteed to carry some ich parasites on them.

 

[AdInfinitum]

The "right answer" is always QT...

The more realistic answer, knowing that doesn't always happen, starts with the questions...what does the store treat with during the 2 week QT and what salinity are they held at? Both will help determine what kind of a chance you're taking...

 

[Nonuser]

I think that if you have a well established tank and a cosiderable amount of money invested in it then everything you put in the tank needs to be well thought out and considered.

I think that the more you disrupt a system then the more issues you could potentially have, because you are adding more variables.

But if you purchase a fish and you consider it healthy and fit for your system and that the potential stress adding this fish will cause the current inhabitants not to mention the new fish then you will risk ick or a breakout because of the stress of the new element (fish) you add.

I don't understand how moving the fish from tank to tank helps. I personally would prefer to get the fish as soon as it arrives at the fish store. Preferably before it hits there system.

I think the major issue with ick and having issues with disease and having entire tanks wiped out is more of a issue with hobbyists adding and subtracting fish Willie nillie from their tanks. Or adding corals or chemicals or whatever.

If you plan everything out add all the fish in the first few months and then leave the tank alone then you would not have issues.

I truly believe the more mucking around and tinkering with things is the worst thing you can do.

But hey, I'm no expert

 

[sirhc13]

The "right answer" is always QT...

The more realistic answer, knowing that doesn't always happen, starts with the questions...what does the store treat with during the 2 week QT and what salinity are they held at? Both will help determine what kind of a chance you're taking...

I believe they are treated with copper in the 2 week QT at the store and held at 1.020
I trust they are healthy leaving the store, and I feed the same diet.
I just want to know if ppl think I'm putting the 2 fish in question under unnecessary stress in a 35g qt ...specifically bc they are tangs who like large tanks

 

[zoomster]

IMO, there is a reason a lot of us have QT tanks. And If you have one, why not use it? Thats what you got it for in the first place correct?
I have a Qt for frags and fish. My line of thought is this.... If something did go wrong with a new purchase of either fish or corals
I would also much rather "lose" my QT tank and possibly a few things in it, than lose my DT tank with the thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours I have invested into it.

As for the size of of tank, within reason, I think any fish can be housed a bit cramped for the short time you would need to determine health / Diet preferences.
It has never hurt any of mine. ( I had a Lrg Naso myself in a similar tank and he did great. Also....just my opinion.

Just my .02 worth and I hope it helps.

 

[AdInfinitum]

You can drop a fish in salinity instantly down to 1.017ish with no real issues however raising salinity should be done gradually. How big are the fish (actual question)and how big are the QT tanks at the store(rhetorical question somewhat)? Are you planning on preventative treatments (Prazi? Chloroquine?) or just observation to protect your existing population. I assume no other Acanthurus species in your tank.

 

[sirhc13]

You can drop a fish in salinity instantly down to 1.017ish with no real issues however raising salinity should be done gradually. How big are the fish (actual question)and how big are the QT tanks at the store(rhetorical question somewhat)? Are you planning on preventative treatments (Prazi? Chloroquine?) or just observation to protect your existing population. I assume no other Acanthurus species in your tank.

The tangs in question are 4-5 inches, the qt tanks at the store are approx 75g+, qt procedure at my place is just observation and no other Tangs in my 220 at the moment.

 

[AdInfinitum]

I don't understand how moving the fish from tank to tank helps. I personally would prefer to get the fish as soon as it arrives at the fish store. Preferably before it hits there system.


But hey, I'm no expert

Acclimating fish straight off the plane from a collector's holding facility is definitely some thing for veterans with the facilities and experience. To hold and medicate and feed new arrivals properly is a real risk reward thing....

 

[AdInfinitum]

Are you prepared to QT? Have a cycled foam filter or a canister running on you main system that is populated with bacteria?

If you opt not to QT...since it is a new system perhaps fairly empty? Would you be prepared to treat anything in the DT or would you just be going with the keep them healthy and let them fight it off idea? I know so many questions...what philosophy....

 

[sirhc13]

Are you prepared to QT? Have a cycled foam filter or a canister running on you main system that is populated with bacteria?

If you opt not to QT...since it is a new system perhaps fairly empty? Would you be prepared to treat anything in the DT or would you just be going with the keep them healthy and let them fight it off idea? I know so many questions...what philosophy....

I have a qt set up and running.....I'm wondering if putting them into my 35g qt is putting more stress on the fish than necessary and therefore more health risks.

 

[AdInfinitum]

I have a qt set up and running.....I'm wondering if putting them into my 35g qt is putting more stress on the fish than necessary and therefore more health risks.

....and fully cycled (ie a strong nitrobacter colony on a non calcium carbonate substrate)?

IMO more QT failures are due to ammonia poisoning than "stress".

 

[sirhc13]

....and fully cycled (ie a strong nitrobacter colony on a non calcium carbonate substrate)?

IMO more QT failures are due to ammonia poisoning than "stress".

My qt setup has been running for about 2 months straight and I'm running a Fluval internal filter rated for a 75g tank, started with colony and have already qt'd a pair of clowns. The qt also has a resident watchman/ pistol pair living in it since day one

 

[AdInfinitum]

If the tank size is your only thing making you hesitate don't worry the 35 will be fine short term.

If they are healthy then being a bit cramped won't be an issue... If they are sick and a little bit of stress is enough to kill them then be glad you didn't let that loose in your DT.

 

[AdInfinitum]

QT should have no substrate or live rock as calcium carbonate interferes with many medications? Where gobies are resistant to many parasites they still can carry them??

 

[AdInfinitum]

The fluval is perfect...it should run in your sump and be moved to the QT when you are ready to hold something. Then cleaned out completely and returned to your sump when the QT is empty.