28gal JBJ HQI NanoCube DIY LED retrofit from RapidLED

Duke

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Victoss link said:
For $40 (including the Arduino) I made a simple controller for my nano's LEDs using an Arduino Uno with a shield on top. Then it uses a few parts for the clock and a few transistors for the PWM. BUT... you need 0-10V so something like this could still be done but you would need digital POTs which I  have not looked into. It does take a little know how and effort so the cost may not be worth it but for people who have Arduinos it could be a fun project and I could always help with the code if needed.

Top side with the shield (white) on top of the Arduino:
img0583si.jpg

(btw this is basically all the parts to it besides the Arduino. There's a transistor and resistor for every channel (3) then a battery, 8 pin chip, cap and crystal for the clock.)

that's really cool and for the less electronically inclined you can get this same setup pre built in a nice little case for 60$ or 75$ with a wireless remote.

http://www.rapidled.com/ddc-01-pwm-controller/

http://www.rapidled.com/ddc-01-pwm-controller-w-remote-control/
 

TORX

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TORX

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Duke link said:
ya same here.. bummer eh.

Maybe...will see what happens. If I can not find a more feasible option, then I will get new P drivers and use my old ones to power my other tank replacing the really crappy overheating Aquastyle ones.
 

Duke

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Torx link said:
[quote author=Duke link=topic=3512.msg34231#msg34231 date=1356631729]
ya same here.. bummer eh.

Maybe...will see what happens. If I can not find a more feasible option, then I will get new P drivers and use my old ones to power my other tank replacing the really crappy overheating Aquastyle ones.
[/quote]

ya I've looked too, let me know if you come up with anything. the reef angel controller was supposed to support both driver types but they aren't cheap. I've read making 2 small mechanical servos using parts from mechanical timers to adjust the pot up with one and down with the other is an option but im sure once you factor in costs and headaches I think new drivers are the way to go... ill probably have to wait for the next build before I get the change to have automatic dimming. Hopefully u figure something out tho.. I would love to have this option.
 

AdamS

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You could use a transistor and have the PWM control the current through the transistor...its not overly difficult if you understand what you are doing. If it was me, i would replace my drivers, that is going to be your best bet in the long run, IMO.

Here is a quick tutorial on transistor use (for motors but principal is the same)
http://www.robotroom.com/PWM5.html
 

TORX

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AdamS link said:
...its not overly difficult if you understand what you are doing....

Little too advanced for me. I have never worked with something like this before. Sounds like I will just get some new drivers. I only have 2 to replace, so cost is not that high. It will still be less then $150 with shipping to get the replacement drivers and controller. Thanks for all the advice.
 

Victoss

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If you wanted to save some money you could still use PWM signals to the 'D' driver but it is not recommended and could decrease the life of the driver but it has been done in the past without problems (or at  least any that I've heard of). Again though it's at your own risk.
 

AdamS

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Torx, i ended up ordering the D version of these drivers as well. My plan is to create a low pass filter through an opamp to turn 0-5v pwm to 0-10v analog (ish). I have read that this works better than the pwm drivers anyways. I will let you know how it works.
 

TORX

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Awesome, not going to lie though, no idea what that means lol. But, would be interested in seeing how that dimming option works

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