R O D I Unit Help!

[Aquatic Dreams]

A friend gave me this unit a while back but I've never set it up. I'm assuming that it needs new filters but have never used one of these units before and am unsure as to which filters to buy and where to get them at a good price. I'm sure I could get them at the LFS but could I save a few $$$ and get something that would work from the hardware store?

The unit I have is a SpectraPure MPDI 90. Here are some pics ...







I'm assuming that I could make my own RODI water and put it into the 5gal jugs that I normally fill up at Home Hardware. Any thoughts or suggestions from your experience with RODI systems would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks ... Dave.

 

[Alberych]

If you don't have a TDS meter, the first thing to do is probably to get one. I think TDS probes are like 20 dollars, and in line will be like 35-40 (reefsupplies.ca carries them). With a TDS meter you can tell how well your system is working-- 0-15 TDS reading out is pretty good, much higher and I would start to replace things. The rightmost canister has the DI resin, which will change color from the bottom up (to like an orangey red) as its used up. The middle compartment is the carbon block, leftmost is the sediment filter, and up top is the RO membrane. I would replace in this order: RO Membrane, DI resin, carbon block, until you're happy with your TDS readings.

This video on RO/DI from BulkReefSupply is good.

Oh yea and if you have space under your sink its really easy to tie it into the cold water line with either a saddle valve or a needle valve.

 

[Aquatic Dreams]

Thanks for the reply and all the info. Yeah ... I was going to get a digital TDS meter the last time I was at the LFS but unfortunately they were out. I wanted to test the water I currently get from the hardware store to see what the levels were at. Do you have any suggestions as to where to purchase these canisters? Should I get them from the LFS or are there cheaper alternatives that work just as well.

I rent in an apartment so I was just going to hook up to the faucet as I don't want to mess with the plumbing. I found that the brass adapter for my Python hose will fit the connection from the RODI system.

 

[dale]

i would say that the 3 canisters underneath are 1st sediment filter then a carbon block then granulated carbon, i would change these three first without question, then check with your tds meter, if readings are above 10, get the membrane prolly $60 or so.. then your tds should be 3 to 10, then you can opt for a di resin canister after the membrane that will then bring your tds to 0...

this a decent supplier
https://www.aquasafecanada.com/home-ro-filters-membranes-di-resin/
princess auto carries sediment and carbon block filters, 2 carbon blocks wont hurt anything...

 

[dale]

standard common filters should work..

 

[dale]

and learn how to flush your system after filter change..

 

[Aquatic Dreams]

HMMM ... well if I took the canisters off could I easily tell what they are? Is there any reason that I couldn't set it up with the carbon block and di instead of 2 carbons and a separate unit? I was watching a video where they said to run the unit for an hour after changing filters.

 

[Luke.]

I just did all mine 6 months ago although im handy , im not with plumbing so I got my plumber to do it all for me then I run it for atleast 3-5 hours and bring it to a local water store about 5 min from me and they check it for TDS for me for free then im good to go

 

[Aquatic Dreams]

I just did all mine 6 months ago although im handy , im not with plumbing so I got my plumber to do it all for me then I run it for atleast 3-5 hours and bring it to a local water store about 5 min from me and they check it for TDS for me for free then im good to go

I found that the handheld digital TDS meter is only around $25 and may be handy to have. Would save trips to the local water store as well. I just need for the LFS to have them in stock. LOL

 

[dale]

HMMM ... well if I took the canisters off could I easily tell what they are? Is there any reason that I couldn't set it up with the carbon block and di instead of 2 carbons and a separate unit? I was watching a video where they said to run the unit for an hour after changing filters.

less carbon before your membrane is hard on the membrane,, its possible to do that but you would have to arrange the hoses so that the di is after the membrane then directly for use...

 

[dale]

I found that the handheld digital TDS meter is only around $25 and may be handy to have. Would save trips to the local water store as well. I just need for the LFS to have them in stock. LOL

ebay

 

[Aquatic Dreams]

OK ... thanks for all the advice and suggestions guys. I will take the canisters off to have a look and share some pics later. I did a search at Home Hardware as I have one close by and this is what I found.

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/i...itioning/Filtration/Reverse-Osmosis/_/N-ntjaj

I'm assuming that the first two items (Sediment and Post Carbon) would be suitable for the unit I have but not sure about the other two.

 

[Nighthawk26]

FIrst block is Sediment, Second is Carbon, Third is DI resin. Then of course the Membrane. THis assumes you don't want to add to the system with additional canisters. You could add 1 or 2 more, and that would change the configuration.

Which Carbon you use will be determined by your water supply. Does your region use Cloramines for treatment? IF so, you will want to use the Chloraplus10 filter. THat or granular catalytic Carbon only. If you do not get a TDS meter, then get color changing DI. Others have suggested getting a inline TDS, and I would agree with this 100%. You can use non color changing DI which is better, longer lasting and in no time will pay for that TDS meter anyways. Which btw I would get 3 line, not a 2. As for the Membrane, don't just get anything. Use a DOW Filmtek.

As others have mentioned, also make sure you are able to flush with it.

 

[Aquatic Dreams]

WOW ... I just found that Incredible Aquariums has these filters cheaper than the hardware store. For an inline DI unit would this suffice?

http://www.incredibleaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43&products_id=3647

And here are the others that I was looking at ...

http://www.incredibleaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43&products_id=182

http://www.incredibleaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43&products_id=183

http://www.incredibleaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43&products_id=3636


Then there is this which from my understanding so far I could put in the 3rd block instead of using the inline DI cartridge ..

http://www.incredibleaquarium.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43&products_id=185


My question is if I go with the DI Canister in the 3rd block which Carbon filter is more necessary? And I am a bit unsure of what you mean by FLUSH with it. I understand the concept of flushing but am not entirely sure what I should be looking for.

Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to figure out exactly what I need to get this unit up and running.

 

[heath]

contact one of our members here "pipes" he is a plumber from Ingersoll and is a very good guy... I live in an apartment building as well, my unit is under the kitchen sink and I have 2 holding tanks, I don't have a di unit because I drink the water and give it to my animals.. standard for me is to automatically have the filters changed every year, very cheap investment for several healthy tanks...
I am confused about the "flushing" as well...

 

[dale]

 

[Nonuser]

So with one like this no algae ever and Sps grow like weeds?

 

[dale]

My question is if I go with the DI Canister in the 3rd block which Carbon filter is more necessary? And I am a bit unsure of what you mean by FLUSH with it. I understand the concept of flushing but am not entirely sure what I should be looking for.

Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to figure out exactly what I need to get this unit up and running. [/QUOTE]

you have a flow restrictor somewhere on your unit ( prob in the fitting attached to the outlet of the membrane), if you remove it no water will pass through the membrane and flush out particles created from your carbon and other contaminates.. and again the di goes after the membrane......

 

[dale]

So with one like this no algae ever and Sps grow like weeds?

lol,, its a lot more complicated than that this just removes 1 source of nutrients...
..

 

[sarahsuth]

Flush means to pass water through the unit at a higher rate of pressure to rinse contaminants off your filters prior to making water you would use for your tank. I don't think I see a flush kit on your system. I would highly recommend the bulk reef supply one. By doing this it makes your filters last longer. They also offer a nice TDS inline. I don't know how to add a link but just go to the website and watch their videos on Rodi systems.


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