Torx link said:
So picked up tests today. A Red Sea Magnesium Pro Test Kit and Nutrafin Kh/Gh test kit. The rest are API.
Salinity 1.023
Mag is 1240
Kh is170
Nitrite = 0
Amm = 0.20
Nitrate = 0
Ph = 7.8
Cal = 440
Phos = <0.2
Hammer is still stubby, but waiving now. Zoas are good. Everything else seems good.
Best thing for salinity is a refractometer, super easy and accurate. Keep an eye peeled for a cheap one. That said..
Salinity is a little low, but not terrible.
your PH is low, it should be 8.0 and up, but again, not a huge deal.
Are your phosphates .02 or .2? This is a big difference. I have phosphates of ~.03 and I can still get nuisance algae from time to time. At .20 I would expect to get slime algae, and microbubbles all over the rocks. That's way way too high.
Now your 'Kh' do you mean dKH... alkalinity? If so, that number is actually PPM, which converts to a dKH of 9.52 which is perfectly fine.
Ammonia is high, it should be .00 It's a newer tank still cycling though isn't it? That should go down on its own, but keep an eye on it.
So I would say it's a new tank, and you could use some sort of phosphate remover if that number is .20 Otherwise, time, patience and water changes.
Hey I'll throw this out there, when I used to use additives like seachem alk buffer and calcium, my frogspawn and torch would close up for a week or so, that stopped when I switched to kalkwasser and then 2 part. Do you dose any of the powder stuff?? Just thinking out loud but I remember having things like this happen.