What do you feed Your fish and how often

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jroovers

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Re: Question of the day

Salty Cracker link said:
[quote author=Big_Als_London link=topic=3318.msg28578#msg28578 date=1351178762]
[quote author=Salty Cracker link=topic=3318.msg28577#msg28577 date=1351178578]
Okay so I upped the feeding and added in an amino acid supplement.  I can say that polyp extention at 1am is absolutely INSANE.  I had 3 millies that looked like they were cheerleaders pompoms.  Perhaps that says I was starving them beforehand.

There is definite colour improvement in 3 corals, no question, and quite quick. Those corals however had been doing fairly well without feedings.  I have 3 that had gone a very pale beige, and I'm watching them closely.  They have good polyp extension and growth but colour had pretty much completely gone.  These are the ones I will see if I can drastically improve.  Everything else looks unchanged except for the polyp activity.  Seriously, last night it looked like the whole tank was eating spaghetti. 

Also, so far no algae blooms of any kind either.  I'd love to be the guy with a tank like Darryl's but running just LED.  :)

Just make sure you take before and after pictures. That will help you notice the colour changes as well.
[/quote]

I've got pictures of everything back to spring of last year.  Growth has been good since all of the frags were pretty much 1", but as the tank parameters improved, some of the corals def looked bland.  Unfortunately, I can't get the white balance thing right on my camera with the royal blue lighting, and that's when these things really shine.  The pictures don't AT ALL do the tank justice when the blues are on.  It's looking way better than when you saw it even.
[/quote]

I have 48 RB's and it is really difficult taking photos under just those lights.  The sensor (in my experience) really seems to struggle with blue and magenta tones even when balanced properly and for some reason tens to wash out.  I haven't had much luck shooting with custom white balance settings, so I just use the temp WB setting and jack it to the max (10,000k).  Post processing software like Lightroom it worth its weight in gold here - you can do further adjustments using a temperature slider and set to different k levels to get closer, or you can use an "eyedropper" to select a pixel in your photo that is approximately 18% grey and get a bit closer than your in camera settings.  That said, even when close, it still doesn't do it justice... the RB's really make'em kick!  It has to be seen to be believed.  Here is a couple of samples under just RB's:

RoyalBlueShots-2.jpg


RoyalBlueShots-3.jpg


RoyalBlueShots-5.jpg


RoyalBlueShots-4.jpg
 

Salty Cracker

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That's the thing, when you get a coral looking 'right' as it does to the eye, everything else in the picture looks crazy...artifacts and blobs of colour.  When i get the overall tank looking 'okay' it tends to blandify the reds and yellows.  Maybe the secret really is the macro shots, eliminating everything else in the shot. 

I gotta get over and see your tank :)
 

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Re: Question of the day

Bill@IA link said:
[quote author=Salty Cracker link=topic=3318.msg28577#msg28577 date=1351178578]
........  I'd love to be the guy with a tank like Darryl's but running just LED.  :)

That is a terrific goal to shoot for and from what I am starting to see out there.....very possible. Your big advantage is that you started with frags under LEDs instead of converting established colonies to LEDs.

:)
[/quote]

It should technically be easier to do than with MH and T5 lighitng, since the spectrum should be more constant with LED than it would be with older tech bulbs.  Plus I don't think I've ever seen a T5 or MH dimmer unit (I of course could be wrong), so it's easier to acclimate coral to the intensity of LED lighting instead of just moving it in a tank.

I'm beginning to see that no matter the lighting, feeding definitely is a huge factor in colour.
 

AdamS

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Re: Question of the day

It should technically be easier to do than with MH and T5 lighitng, since the spectrum should be more constant with LED than it would be with older tech bulbs.  Plus I don't think I've ever seen a T5 or MH dimmer unit (I of course could be wrong), so it's easier to acclimate coral to the intensity of LED lighting instead of just moving it in a tank.

I'm beginning to see that no matter the lighting, feeding definitely is a huge factor in colour.

Unfortunately this is incorrect. One of LEDS major shortcomings is colour temperature. When an LED is manufactured the colour temperature varies widely. They go through a process called 'binning' in which they are put into a bin based on their measured colour temperature. The range of colours put into 1 bin can be drastic. It is very expensive to get LEDS that are binned tightly. I suspect the ones sold to DIYers are only marginally above christmas lights.  If you ever buy a cheap led replacement for a household light, buy a bunch of the same ones and light them up beside each other and you will see what i mean.

In contrast, Fluorescent and MH have been around so long that the technology is very good at rendering colour as well as being consistent.

Also, dimming ballasts are highly available for both fluorescent and MH lamps. They come in every flavour you can imagine. I have entire catalogues devoted to them.
 

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Re: Question of the day

AdamS link said:
It should technically be easier to do than with MH and T5 lighitng, since the spectrum should be more constant with LED than it would be with older tech bulbs.  Plus I don't think I've ever seen a T5 or MH dimmer unit (I of course could be wrong), so it's easier to acclimate coral to the intensity of LED lighting instead of just moving it in a tank.

I'm beginning to see that no matter the lighting, feeding definitely is a huge factor in colour.

Unfortunately this is incorrect. One of LEDS major shortcomings is colour temperature. When an LED is manufactured the colour temperature varies widely. They go through a process called 'binning' in which they are put into a bin based on their measured colour temperature. The range of colours put into 1 bin can be drastic. It is very expensive to get LEDS that are binned tightly. I suspect the ones sold to DIYers are only marginally above christmas lights.  If you ever buy a cheap led replacement for a household light, buy a bunch of the same ones and light them up beside each other and you will see what i mean.

In contrast, Fluorescent and MH have been around so long that the technology is very good at rendering colour as well as being consistent.

Also, dimming ballasts are highly available for both fluorescent and MH lamps. They come in every flavour you can imagine. I have entire catalogues devoted to them.


I think you miss my point.  Once you set up an LED fixture, the light will remain much more constant than the ever changing 'diminished life' specturm on a MH or flourescent.

As for your opinion on DIY bulbs, what are you basing it on?  Anything at all?  I will agree that there are different quality levels of LED, just like anything else, you get what you pay for.  I don't think I'd be growing my full tank of SPS coral under christmas lights.  Anyone that's seen my tank has to agree that my incredibly unattractive mess of wires is growing an awful nice crop of acros, millies, etc.

To each their own.  I like the $50 hydro savings every month, and the $500 savings in bulbs every year.  I don't miss the weird algae blooms that could occur as a florescent bulb neared the end of its lifespan, or the 3 degree increase in temp the MH bulbs would bring every day.  I almost had to buy a chiller for summer months at one point.
 

Duke

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i'd have to disagree.. I have DIY LEDS and looking at the LEDS lit up themselves you can see zero color temperature differences between the different LEDS with the naked eye, and imo the fact that binning isn't as strict is a bonus, who cares if my RB's drift anywhere from 460-470, and my whites might be 10k or 9k or 11k it all adds to the overall spectrum and can only help with the growth of coral, Just because certain technologies are old and tested doesn't mean they are better, l mean when was the last time you watched a VHS tape? they used to be the greatest thing since sliced bread. I came from MH lighting and all I can say is my LEDS cost less, look better, run cooler, keep the tank cooler, use less hydro, and grow corals as well or better than when I had the MH setup. As far as dimmable HID lighting goes too, most dimmable ballasts can only dim down to what 50% or 60% power.. and cost a fortune? this is to save money in industrial applications and not intended for the reef hobbyist.

Also, its not like you need any advice about photography, I wish I could take shots like yours, but if your shooting a Canon you can set the custom white balance with a photo off your memory card.. I find that if you take a few shots of say your rockwork, your sand, your back aquarium panel, a green coral, a red coral. etc etc and try using those as your custom white balance photo eventually you will find what works to get your white balance spot on, for me its a shot of my sand bed if all the lights are on, and with just the RB I find a shot of the rockwork comes pretty close. post processing is great but only does so much if your photos are very saturated, for me at least it really helped me by getting the colors somewhat right on the camera and they making minor adjustments with lightroom.
 

AdamS

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Sorry didnt mean to hijack the thread. Salty, i agree LEDs are the answer. I was simply suggesting that the technology is still widely misunderstood. I will post more under a new thread, later tonight.

Adam
 

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AdamS link said:
Sorry didnt mean to hijack the thread. Salty, i agree LEDs are the answer. I was simply suggesting that the technology is still widely misunderstood. I will post more under a new thread, later tonight.

Adam

Sounds good.  I don't work for any LED companies, but have high interest in the tech. :)
 

teebone110

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Re: Question of the day

Salty Cracker link said:
I'm beginning to see that no matter the lighting, feeding definitely is a huge factor in colour.

back on topic........

I agree+++++
It is insane how feeding can make the colours start to come out. Since adding my biopellets, I have been feeding like crazy and my colours have really started to take off. I also noticed that my corals have been growing alot too, causing my CA and ALK level demands to increase significantly
 

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Re: Question of the day

teebone110 link said:
[quote author=Salty Cracker link=topic=3318.msg29181#msg29181 date=1351834053]

I'm beginning to see that no matter the lighting, feeding definitely is a huge factor in colour.

back on topic........

I agree+++++
It is insane how feeding can make the colours start to come out. Since adding my biopellets, I have been feeding like crazy and my colours have really started to take off. I also noticed that my corals have been growing alot too, causing my CA and ALK level demands to increase significantly
[/quote]
I've been cranking through a lot of each as well, even with the water changes.  Something is gobbling it up.  I'm going through a jug a month easy now, which is double what I needed about 6 months ago.  However 2-part is cheap so I'm happy to turn up the dosers!!!  :)

Hey you feed oyster feast from Bill, right?  How fast do you go through a bottle?  I'm thinking of changing up the menu a bit in there and trying different things.

I changed my GFO swapout from every month to every 2 months.  I still won't run the tank without GFO and ROX, but I might let it sit a little bit longer and monitor my algae.  I'm at the 2 month mark and I see tiny bubbles on a couple of rock high in the tank.  Maybe I can use that as a gauge, I also noticed a lot more hair algae in my overflows.  I guess as long as it's not in the tank, but it makes me nervous. 
 

teebone110

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Re: Question of the day

Salty Cracker link said:
[quote author=teebone110 link=topic=3318.msg29192#msg29192 date=1351867347]
[quote author=Salty Cracker link=topic=3318.msg29181#msg29181 date=1351834053]

I'm beginning to see that no matter the lighting, feeding definitely is a huge factor in colour.

back on topic........

I agree+++++
It is insane how feeding can make the colours start to come out. Since adding my biopellets, I have been feeding like crazy and my colours have really started to take off. I also noticed that my corals have been growing alot too, causing my CA and ALK level demands to increase significantly
[/quote]
I've been cranking through a lot of each as well, even with the water changes.  Something is gobbling it up.  I'm going through a jug a month easy now, which is double what I needed about 6 months ago.  However 2-part is cheap so I'm happy to turn up the dosers!!!  :)

Hey you feed oyster feast from Bill, right?  How fast do you go through a bottle?  I'm thinking of changing up the menu a bit in there and trying different things.

I changed my GFO swapout from every month to every 2 months.  I still won't run the tank without GFO and ROX, but I might let it sit a little bit longer and monitor my algae.  I'm at the 2 month mark and I see tiny bubbles on a couple of rock high in the tank.  Maybe I can use that as a gauge, I also noticed a lot more hair algae in my overflows.  I guess as long as it's not in the tank, but it makes me nervous.
[/quote]

I use to feed a small amount 2 times a week of oyster feast, as I wanted to slowly increase deedings. Since I've added biopellets, I have been watching for 2 things....
coral paling - means I need to feed more
hair algea - means I'm feeding too much
Finding the "sweet spot" to me, means great colour, minimal hair algea... Im still get hair algea in the same usual spots, but it can be easily scrubbed and cut out.

I have actually increased oyster feast feedings to 3 times a week and have doubled my initial quantities of feeding. I also feed once a week with reefroids/reef chili toom this is in additon to my regular daily PE mysis fish feedings
 

Salty Cracker

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Hm

Okay I definitely don't feed that much, but also, don't have HA anywhere in the tank except on the top edges of the overflow, and I think it's sort of expected there with so much light, oxygen and flow.

I may have to try the 'feast.  I don't think the mysis does much for the little feeders.

I have one coral that is steadfast in its resistance to colour up, but it's also not putting out the polyps either.  It might be one I just pull out and put in something pretty.  However I'd rather figure out what it's problem is than just give up.  That's the easy way out :)
 

jroovers

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Petercar link said:
Another one ?...lol...tht went from fish feeding to lights and cameras...lol.

The camera part is off topic, but I think lighting and feeding are within the same realm of discussion - in the end, feeding and different lighting arrangments are about achieving sufficient growth and maximizing colour. 
 

jroovers

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Duke link said:
Also, its not like you need any advice about photography, I wish I could take shots like yours, but if your shooting a Canon you can set the custom white balance with a photo off your memory card.. I find that if you take a few shots of say your rockwork, your sand, your back aquarium panel, a green coral, a red coral. etc etc and try using those as your custom white balance photo eventually you will find what works to get your white balance spot on, for me its a shot of my sand bed if all the lights are on, and with just the RB I find a shot of the rockwork comes pretty close. post processing is great but only does so much if your photos are very saturated, for me at least it really helped me by getting the colors somewhat right on the camera and they making minor adjustments with lightroom.

Different strokes for different folks, either way works.  I haven't attempted WB'ing in the custom mode with just the LED's on, but I wouldn't even bother trying at this point at setting at 10k and going from there is a method that is quick and easy for me... but that isn't to say it is the best or most optimal method.  Shooting at 10k in camera under most full specturm lighting situations will get you pretty close to WB'd... but the need to adjust further will vary from spot to spot in each tank.  Saturation will depend on the shooting method you are using... RAW doesn't add any saturation, JPEG mode does add saturation and contrast in camera.  So RAW may need more tweaking in post, but in the end will give you more flexibility to produce something that is accurate as to what you are seeing.  I think the take home message is that LED's are difficult to shoot under, and it is difficult to truly represent what you are shooting, and there are many methods to get from point a to point b.  That said, I haven't been able to accurately depict what I see under just the RB's with photos, they are definitely up for interpretation... fun to try though!!  ;D
 
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