teebone110
Distinguished Member
Neopimp link said:
Agreed, I never have had a starphire tank before, the difference is pretty amazing.
Teebone's Epic 210G SPS Build
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Agreed, I never have had a starphire tank before, the difference is pretty amazing.
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Jewel link said:
Okay, here is another shot…
I need to figure out my returns. My plan is to cover the overflow box with a black acrylic top and have 2 returns come out both sides just below the water level.
What size returns should I use 1/2 or inch 3/4? This will be tee'd off from a 1 inch return line from my pump.
I think 3/4 might be the way to go.
I will post a full tank shot soon
Jewel
Guest
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Location
- Wingham Ontario
You're playin around now,.funny guy.
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Jewel link said:
maybeâ¦
;D
Neopimp link said:
Sounds like a plan.
Another question⦠I am also planning my drains in my overflow box and have been reading up on the Bean Animal.
So I will have 3 drains...
I have been thinking about bringing the full siphon drain down, close to the bottom of the inside of the overflow box so that it will siphon up any detritus or crud into the sump.
Just wondering if this would cause the water level inside the box to be lower and make things noisier with water rolling down the inside of the box?
Since the other drain will have a gate valve on it, will this drain be more likely to control the water level inside the overflow rather than the full siphon?
Will this work, or should I keep both siphons closer to the desired water level inside the box?
The level will be as high as the trickle. You can set that siphon where ever you want.
Open your valve all the way... Start the system... Slowly pinch in on the gate valve until the level starts to rise in the over flow. Once it starts to overflow into the trickle drain you can fine tune it.
Setting the aiphon deep just means that more water will end up in your sump when the power quits and that on start up the tank will be noisey longer as water falls into the overflow.
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Open your valve all the way... Start the system... Slowly pinch in on the gate valve until the level starts to rise in the over flow. Once it starts to overflow into the trickle drain you can fine tune it.
Setting the aiphon deep just means that more water will end up in your sump when the power quits and that on start up the tank will be noisey longer as water falls into the overflow.
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teebone110 link said:
maybeâ¦
;D
Neopimp link said:
Sounds like a plan.
Another question⦠I am also planning my drains in my overflow box and have been reading up on the Bean Animal.
So I will have 3 drains...
I have been thinking about bringing the full siphon drain down, close to the bottom of the inside of the overflow box so that it will siphon up any detritus or crud into the sump.
Just wondering if this would cause the water level inside the box to be lower and make things noisier with water rolling down the inside of the box?
Since the other drain will have a gate valve on it, will this drain be more likely to control the water level inside the overflow rather than the full siphon?
Will this work, or should I keep both siphons closer to the desired water level inside the box?
[/quote]
The gate valve goes on your main siphon line. There is no valve on the other two unless you want to put them on, but they aren't needed.
The main siphon is pinched in to match what the pump is puttin in the tank, then it is pinched in just a little bit more putting that little bit into your trickle drain. Emerg will stay dry unless something gets plugged or on start up possibly while the system steadies out.
One full pipe with valve, one trickle pipe and one dry pipe
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teebone110
Distinguished Member
Neopimp link said:
maybeâ¦
;D
Neopimp link said:
Sounds like a plan.
Another question⦠I am also planning my drains in my overflow box and have been reading up on the Bean Animal.
So I will have 3 drains...
I have been thinking about bringing the full siphon drain down, close to the bottom of the inside of the overflow box so that it will siphon up any detritus or crud into the sump.
Just wondering if this would cause the water level inside the box to be lower and make things noisier with water rolling down the inside of the box?
Since the other drain will have a gate valve on it, will this drain be more likely to control the water level inside the overflow rather than the full siphon?
Will this work, or should I keep both siphons closer to the desired water level inside the box?
[/quote]
The gate valve goes on your main siphon line. There is no valve on the other two unless you want to put them on, but they aren't needed.
The main siphon is pinched in to match what the pump is puttin in the tank, then it is pinched in just a little bit more putting that little bit into your trickle drain. Emerg will stay dry unless something gets plugged or on start up possibly while the system steadies out.
One full pipe with valve, one trickle pipe and one dry pipe
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/quote]
Thanks for the clarification, its amazing how much inaccurate info there is out there.
Also, another question⦠I see some put a small air valve on one of the dursos, I assume that this is the for the full siphon line?
..and another questionâ¦
If I want to run the full siphon durso down to the bottom of the box, should the elbow be at the bottom or at the top with an added extention down.
I realize that a low elbow would need to modified so that it can be easily reached for maintenance
teebone110 link said:
maybeâ¦
;D
Neopimp link said:
Sounds like a plan.
Another question⦠I am also planning my drains in my overflow box and have been reading up on the Bean Animal.
So I will have 3 drains...
I have been thinking about bringing the full siphon drain down, close to the bottom of the inside of the overflow box so that it will siphon up any detritus or crud into the sump.
Just wondering if this would cause the water level inside the box to be lower and make things noisier with water rolling down the inside of the box?
Since the other drain will have a gate valve on it, will this drain be more likely to control the water level inside the overflow rather than the full siphon?
Will this work, or should I keep both siphons closer to the desired water level inside the box?
[/quote]
The gate valve goes on your main siphon line. There is no valve on the other two unless you want to put them on, but they aren't needed.
The main siphon is pinched in to match what the pump is puttin in the tank, then it is pinched in just a little bit more putting that little bit into your trickle drain. Emerg will stay dry unless something gets plugged or on start up possibly while the system steadies out.
One full pipe with valve, one trickle pipe and one dry pipe
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/quote]
Thanks for the clarification, its amazing how much inaccurate info there is out there.
Also, another question⦠I see some put a small air valve on one of the dursos, I assume that this is the for the full siphon line?
..and another questionâ¦
If I want to run the full siphon durso down to the bottom of the box, should the elbow be at the bottom or at the top with an added extention down.
I realize that a low elbow would need to modified so that it can be easily reached for maintenance
[/quote]
I would just use a straight pipe for the the siphon and emerg drain stand pipes And I wouldn't glue them into the bulkheads. Now on the trickle drain the durso might actually be useful but not really needed. That air line is used to turn a dursod drain from an open or trickle into a full siphon. In a clogged situation As the water level climbs above the trickle/open drain more and more water will start to flow through it. That small air line will allow air into the piping as well as remove any air lock from the standpipe. Once the water rise up and covers the end of the air line that open drain will turn to a full siphon and start draining a full speed.
I have found it needed in people with long runs to a basement sump. If it's a straight shot to the sump under your tank I wouldn't worry about it or the durso set up unless it's too noisey for you. I would just try a straight pipe at first since it much more simple.
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curiousphil
Super Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Location
- London, Ontario
teebone110 link said:
You'll definitely want that elbow down at the bottom instead of having at the top with an extension down to the bottom. If you use an extension, I don't think that the siphon would start properly. The water would have to overcome backpressure, travel all the way up the extension tube to the elbow, and then high enough to fall over the elbow and create the siphon. I don't think that the water would climb up the extension tube.
Think of it like a p-trap in a sink. If the drain goes down for a little bit to the P, and then way way up before going down again, the water in the sink wouldn't be able to create enough pressure to force the water through the trap and down the drain.
Having the elbow at the bottom will create much less pressure and the siphon should start quite easily.
And it sounds like Neo has a firm grasp of the beananimal, everything he's said so far is spot on, I have nothing else to add there!
Put an airline out the top of the durso and place the other end below the stable water level and you could theoretically extend it way down. If it wa me I would just not use a stand pipe. Just the bulkhead if you wanted to keep the bottom of the overflow chamber clean
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teebone110
Distinguished Member
Neopimp link said:
Yeah, It's running straight to my sump underneath, so it isn't a long run. I want it to be silent so was going to keep a trickle line, but maybe I won't use an airline in it and see how it works.
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Neopimp link said:
I followed bean animal specs and drilled 3 holes for 1 inch bulkheads and 1 for a 1.25" bulkhead.
The plan is to use the two of the 1 inch for the drains and the 1.25" for the emergency.
According to the Bean Animal recommendations, I was going to enlarge the 1" to 1.25" drain lines to ensure silence. This has to do with liquid physics
and I'm not talking about mixing drinks ;DIf the 1 inch is too small and can't handle the volume, I can switch the full siphon to the 1.25", but I don't think it will be a problem.
Here is a pic of the specs on my Waveline DC 1200 pump, it has some good power, but my plan is to dial it down to a low setting.
Here is a shot of the inside of my overflow box with the holes drilledâ¦
I have a couple bulkheads resting in there for sizing, etc.
Just for fun, which holes would you assign to siphon, trickle, return, and emergency?
From left to right. Emerg return siphon trickle. I have some reasons but none are really that important.
You will get about 800 to 1200 gph out of one 1" siphon I think. Depends which website you read lol.
I think it's on the higher end.
You hve the flexibility to set it up with the 1.25 siphon if you need to but just make sure you run a plug the siphon test after you set it up. If the tank overflows you will have to dial back the pump
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You will get about 800 to 1200 gph out of one 1" siphon I think. Depends which website you read lol.
I think it's on the higher end.
You hve the flexibility to set it up with the 1.25 siphon if you need to but just make sure you run a plug the siphon test after you set it up. If the tank overflows you will have to dial back the pump
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im using bean animal design with 1" and a dc12000. With it running 2 reactors and dual 3/4 returns to the tank it will just slightly outflow the full siphon with it on full power(6 out of 6), with it on the lowest power(1 of 6) your 1" full siphon will be pinched off around 2/3's of the way.. lots of room to increase flow if you want, 1" will do just fine. the trick to making it silent is keeping your 2nd "trickle" line having the least amount of water possible going through it, thats done by fine tuning your full siphon. your full siphon line will be best if it cuts off just below the waterline in your sump (mine stops 3/4" under water when the whole thing is running, too deep and your full siphon will have a harder time starting.
if it was me i would just stick to your plan, 1" full spihon, 1" trickle and use the 1.25" for the emergency drain(water has never gone down mine since i tested the setup), but its good to know if you oversize it like that there will be no way you would have a backup in case of an emergency.
if it was me i would just stick to your plan, 1" full spihon, 1" trickle and use the 1.25" for the emergency drain(water has never gone down mine since i tested the setup), but its good to know if you oversize it like that there will be no way you would have a backup in case of an emergency.
teebone110
Distinguished Member
curiousphil link said:
You'll definitely want that elbow down at the bottom instead of having at the top with an extension down to the bottom. If you use an extension, I don't think that the siphon would start properly. The water would have to overcome backpressure, travel all the way up the extension tube to the elbow, and then high enough to fall over the elbow and create the siphon. I don't think that the water would climb up the extension tube.
Think of it like a p-trap in a sink. If the drain goes down for a little bit to the P, and then way way up before going down again, the water in the sink wouldn't be able to create enough pressure to force the water through the trap and down the drain.
Having the elbow at the bottom will create much less pressure and the siphon should start quite easily.
And it sounds like Neo has a firm grasp of the beananimal, everything he's said so far is spot on, I have nothing else to add there!
[/quote]
Very good points, thanks for clarifying things, much appreciatedâ¦
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Neopimp link said:From left to right. Emerg return siphon trickle. I have some reasons but none are really that important.
Just curious, what is your reasoning?
Thats the same order that I am planning to use,
Duke link said:
Nothing like "real-world" testing advice, sounds like things will be fine with the 1 inch drains with my pump dialled down slightly.
I am not one for high volume turnover in my sump so this is perfect.
Will be making a manifold similar to my current system to run my GFO/GCO reactors, biopellets, etc, too.
Also will be using this pump to move water out for water changes.
Do you run filter sock off that line?
Also, do you have elbows on your drains or are they wide open?
I like Neo's suggestion about leaving the siphon line open without any fittings or pipe on the drain, might have to experiment.
No socks on my system but these pumps can handle the workload imo.
Not sure what you mean by elbows? I made the turn downs in the overflow box with elbows and I have 3 elbows on drains..
One thing I know is you don't want your full Siphon close to the bottom of your overflow at it will drain it completely when your pumps are off, putting extreme pressure on your overflow. And if it's vented like a store bought one it would drain your whole tank.
Here's some photos of my setup from when I set it up.
Finishing up
All done and running with fresh water to test the plumbing
Not sure what you mean by elbows? I made the turn downs in the overflow box with elbows and I have 3 elbows on drains..
One thing I know is you don't want your full Siphon close to the bottom of your overflow at it will drain it completely when your pumps are off, putting extreme pressure on your overflow. And if it's vented like a store bought one it would drain your whole tank.
Here's some photos of my setup from when I set it up.
Finishing up
All done and running with fresh water to test the plumbing