90g Frag Display 10g Refuge/sump Phyto Copepod Culture

[Dr Bluethumb]

A couple of points...in over 30 years of keeping SW tanks I have only used skimmers for the last five years and don't always...there are plenty of skimmerless tanks around so no proof necessary. Skimmers and reactors just preform the same processes in a more space effective manner than natural processing.

Secondly in aquaria, phyto and other micro-algal forms will never replace Macros for nutrient export because micro fauna will always consume it far too rapidly for it to be self sustaining and since it must be dosed to be replenished it is not growing and consuming significant nutrients in the process.

In the ocean micro-algae do this job but it is a question of scale. To achieve the balance that exists in nature between reef and relatively empty open ocean...for your nano display tank you would need to fill your entire basement with water as the open ocean (sump) and bathe the entire surface area with intense sunlight as the driving energy source.

Can mandarins survive in green water along with the pods like a lightly tinted green culture of pods do? If shrimp survive which imo are more delicate then a fish then why would a fish not survive in this conditions?

I do not plan to keep the water green, but to maintain clear water while dosing mega doses of phyto. I will use no carbon too. Is this cruel? I feel that the pods,coral,sponges and micro organisms will do their jobs and consume the phyto.

If my water turns green for an extended time, then i will delute with massive water changes. but I have no plan of this happening because it never happened before.

I may start with less then 5 cups on the 90G and wait and see then adjust depending on the consumption. You have to remember that my phyto is not as dense as store bought phyto, so it require alot more dosing.

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

Right now my tank is yellowish I think it is because I started with detritus filled old dry rocks from a person i met from Kigigi. so I feel i need to wait one more month for the die off to happen then start to add the phyto. there is 2 fishes in there now doing great, but I will take them out before adding the mandarin in another 3 plus months.

in the meantime i will add culture of harpaticoid and phyto daily starting next month. To an empty tank.

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

A couple of points...in over 30 years of keeping SW tanks I have only used skimmers for the last five years and don't always...there are plenty of skimmerless tanks around so no proof necessary. Skimmers and reactors just preform the same processes in a more space effective manner than natural processing.

Secondly in aquaria, phyto and other micro-algal forms will never replace Macros for nutrient export because micro fauna will always consume it far too rapidly for it to be self sustaining and since it must be dosed to be replenished it is not growing and consuming significant nutrients in the process.

In the ocean micro-algae do this job but it is a question of scale. To achieve the balance that exists in nature between reef and relatively empty open ocean...for your nano display tank you would need to fill your entire basement with water as the open ocean (sump) and bathe the entire surface area with intense sunlight as the driving energy source.

In my head I think that the photosynthesis will happen if slightly more phyto is added then consumed. if photosynthesis happen then P/N is taken out of the tank?

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

My first fish will be an algae blenny. all other fishes will probably not happen because I am afarid of not having a peaceful tank. I need to turn pumps off and collect the eggs after the mandarin spawn. After they spawn aggressive fish will swarm the eggs to eat them before I can collect them in a container.

I filled my 10G with small rocks along the sides and will place tons of egg crate in the middle to duplicate macro algae. I did this because the water level in the sump will raise and lower too much and I do not want to buy a container plus a ATO

I believe if in nature temp and salanity raise and lower in a instant then why not in captivity. I know maintaining equalibrium is best, but i am doing a fair job keeping things within 20% of being perfect.

I want to leave space for a drip of phyto plankton in the sump.

Do you think I should add the drip to both the sump and DT or just the sump?

will the pressure from the return rupture the phyto capsule?

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

As you can see there is a yellow tint to water.

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

 

[AdInfinitum]

In my head I think that the photosynthesis will happen if slightly more phyto is added then consumed. if photosynthesis happen then P/N is taken out of the tank?

With your plan....N and P are never being removed from the system only constantly added when you dose...nutrients are never being removed only perhaps temporarily sequestered. In a closed system if there is any import there must be export (actual removal from the system) to balance.

Phyto growth will never stay ahead of consuption in a small scale system...consumers will always bloom until their food source is exhausted. I have worked with closed systems in the past (fascinating challenge). Where the only additions are light energy and atmospheric gases to allow only self sustaining food webs. These systems are very limited in their ability to house higher level consumers and are subject to massive swings in population booms and die-offs (just like nature) but on a more rapid and exaggerated scale which is why they are useful to study. IME they have usually been in the 1000 gallon +++ scale including all of the various refugia and scrubbers and are extremely energy intensive (watts of light added) to be successful. Building a system that approaches self sustaining as much as possible is a worthwhile goal but as soon as you begin to import anything to artificially maintain or stabilize a population you must balance that with equal export or waste etc will inevitably build up.

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

I plan on having waste P/N accumulate on the side of the tank, but when I slice it off the criitters will consume it.

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

Copepod condo:





No light or macro in the sump. Just 2times copepod condo, 3 inch aragonite different sizes, heater, lift pump.



light for maintenence on copepods, thinking of getting 2 x 20G if they fit under the phyto/copepods grow op station.

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

What do you people think about this light:

https://www.reefbreeders.com/shop/photon-48-v2/

For the 90G. The price is right and I am hoping it will be A $1000 or under after shipping and customs/taxes. Will it do great for mushrooms,palythoas,zoanthids?

It is suppose to be comparable to 2 x 250 watt MH.

 

[Shooter000]

Seriously just get a MarsAqua Fixture save yourself 700$, they grow coral amazing, who cares about changing colours, or sunrise, or colour combo this and that, bla. Bla bla. This light has grown everything from zoos to high end sps, I will stick with this fixture till it dies, and then I'll get another cause they are awesome and excellent prices

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

Will give it some serious thought. thanks i do not really want to spend A "G" yet on a light unless it's worth it.

 

[Shooter000]

Here's a pic of the colours you can get from these fixtures, just for some reference to hum and haa about

No sump
Just a 44g tank, don't tell me they don't work good

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

What size and how many units I need? for a 90G

I will get the $1000 one for my 90G display

Then on my frag only tank of 90G I will buy the Mars. just because i want one of my tanks to look more presentable and do not want to hang from the ceiling anything.

I like your tank.

Wish I could figure a way to install legs or a goose neck etc on them?

Here my first video of my display 90G and phyto/plankton station:



Is there a better website to upload video too. Then to download it onto a forum like this?

 

[Shooter000]

Is your tank 4' long?

If so one 3' Fixture (300w) would work or 2 single fixtures(165w each), I switched to a 3' on my 3' 44g just for better coverage, I also didn't hang from the ceiling I used a stainless steal Fixture I made and put in on the wall, and yes you can put them on a bar across the tank as that's what I did with my frag tank setup, just need to unscrew the casing and drill a few holes in it put a bolt through and secure to the bar

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

Lol nice. I need your skills. I want my whole bachelor apartment loaded with tanks eventually. if you do my main display in a very presentable way I will pay you for it then copy it for my 90G frag tank. I just need to know the units to buy.

I'm not greedy I need 250 watt mh equivalent of radions and I am happy on my 90G

 

[Dr Bluethumb]

the tank on the right side is nice the frag tank I believe. but I would like a a welder or something to make it sit ontop on my tank then I will be happy. or maybe some other way?

will 2 x 165 watt do and be similar to 400 to 500 watts of mh

 

[Shooter000]

Yep that's all I did was weld up a light stand for the frag tank, you could make it so it was just over the tank instead of really high up

 

[Shooter000]

Not sure about the two fixtures being the same amount or close to that of a Mh as Ive never dealt with Mh's before

 

[Shooter000]

Lol nice. I need your skills. I want my whole bachelor apartment loaded with tanks eventually. if you do my main display in a very presentable way I will pay you for it then copy it for my 90G frag tank. I just need to know the units to buy.

I'm not greedy I need 250 watt mh equivalent of radions and I am happy on my 90G

Want me to come down and make a whole bunch of in walls for you