Neopimp's Reef Tank DIY LED Build - 96 LED

[Neopimp]

Fixture is still running strong and have no had any issues with it at all.  I finally managed to get my hands on a Par meter to check and see hwo they were doing.  It turns out i was huggin the minimum numbers for sps across the top of my rock work.  I was not really surprised cause if you read back some you will see that I went with no optics and set the fixtures only a coupel inches from the water. 

So
1. With out the optics
2. Couple inches from Water level
3.  Drivers running full out - 700mA
4. Leds being driven at only about half the rating (running at 700 when white can be run at 1500)
I managed to get par reading int he 350 - 375 range at the top of the rock work about 8 inches under water.

After I added optics I uped that number to 475-500 at the top and 250 on the sand bed.  By adding the optics I noticed a slight bit  blending issues but only when the I am really looking for it.  Teh single red led I have in each fixture could probably go but it does make the reds look red.  Downside is that I have red shadows aka disco ball effect.  This only is really noticeable when the whites are dimming down.

The only chip I had fail was my own fault cause I slipped with the exacto knife and took the top of the led off it.  Simple fix was jsut to solder a jumper wire onto both side of the star and the wole thing lit up again.

Everythign I ahev in my tank is growing.  The color on the sps stuff coudl be better which is why I was curious abotu the PAR in the tank. 

This has been my only type of lighting... I went with LED right away before investing in T% or MH.

I ddo not regret one bit spending the money on the name brand cree leds and the name brand drivers especially.  I truely think these things will last a decade.

I have some pics somewhere of things and will take some new ones to see how everythign has changed over the last year.

Cheers

 

[Salty Cracker]

I second what he says.  Very similar setup, very similar results.

 

[AdamS]

You really did your build right, sure you could have done some things different but i really like what you did. High quality products all the way, and more underdriven LEDs is soooo much better than less over driven LEDs. I assume you are under utilizing the drivers somewhat as well? You will get 10 years, but if LED evolves as much in the next 4 years as it did in the previous 4, you will likely replace things with half wattage in 5 years.

One thing i want to point out to everyone is that by adding optics you increased efficiency by 33%. So people that use fixtures with lots of wattage and no reflectors, think about it. You could decrease your wattage by 33% for the cost of a reflector. And this 33% could be upwards of 50% for metal halide and T5HO.

Adam

 

[Salty Cracker]

I'm totally psyched about the improvements coming in LED.

 

[AdamS]

Are you guys using any LEDs in the 400-430nm range? My understanding is that quality LEDs in that range are relatively new.

 

[Salty Cracker]

They must be new, the UV ones are what 420 or so? 

Could you even see those at all?  They would just be good for the coral, correct?

 

[AdamS]

Correct just for the coral. If you read the oct 31 article on LED lighting at advanced aquarist, they indicate that this will make the corals fluorescence show ie 'pop'. It also indicates this is very important spectrum for growth.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature

 

[Salty Cracker]

Where can you find these LEDs? I'm definitely interested in getting the largest spectum possible.  I really want to prove that LED tech can beat even the best conventional lighting.  It's actually kind of exciting.

 

[AdamS]

Rapidled has them "violet uv" but i dont think they are cree, i have never tried them or ordered from rapidled. So im not recommending either, just saying they had them.

 

[Neopimp]

Hmm time to swap some Royal blues for UV

 

[Victoss]

I have the violet UV LEDs from RapidLED and you will see them still but they look like a dim purple even though they might be at full blast. UV is technically under the 400nm range so thats why rapid calls them violet UV and they definitely make some colours pop. A big part in why I got them was to help with growth and round out the spectrum so as you can see on the chart there are a few important spots in this range.

 

[Neopimp]

Thinking I need to add some true violet and blues to this set up.    One driver and 8 blue and 8 violet LEDs.  I'll be posting as it happens.


Also noticed that threads this old are locking themselves after a certain time of inactivity. Fyi

 

[Boga]

I have the violet UV LEDs from RapidLED and you will see them still but they look like a dim purple even though they might be at full blast. UV is technically under the 400nm range so thats why rapid calls them violet UV and they definitely make some colours pop. A big part in why I got them was to help with growth and round out the spectrum so as you can see on the chart there are a few important spots in this range.

Wondering if the UV light (not visible for the human eye) is accounted for by a PAR meter?

Thinking I need to add some true violet and blues to this set up.    One driver and 8 blue and 8 violet LEDs.  I'll be posting as it happens.

So what would be your overall LED ratio? I understand that the spectrum may not be the same due to power output and LED efficiency.

 

[Neopimp]

Not sure exactly as I used neutral whites, blue, royal blues, and 2 reds. .  Add 8 rb and 8 uv  to
The original numbers in the first post

 

[harleymike]

Most people I talk too seem too be adding more UV's.
Is this for look or growth.

 

[Neopimp]

Not sure but I know that I am lacking in the near uv range.  Supposedly it will help with pop and growth

 

[Duke]

Not sure but I know that I am lacking in the near uv range.  Supposedly it will help with pop and growth

theres so much mixed opinons on this online.. apparently RB leds emit plenty of UV rays so who knows.. the other thing is from what i've read there really isnt a true UV led on the market.. most are just leds way down in the purple spectrum.. i have 3 "uv" leds and they d f all if you ask me.. blue and white works great to grow coral.. at least my coral.. tdb320reef also seems to have no issues with just blue and whites.

 

[Neopimp]

The only reason that I figured I would add them is that I want to have more blue in the tank.  So I have to add another string of 16.  Figures I would just fix them while I was add it.  If I did t want a cooler look I wouldn't be putting them in

 

[curiousphil]

Like Victoss said the UV LEDs are not true UV, they are between 405nm to 430nm.  I have a handful in my setup and yes they are visible to the eye, though the 405nm diodes appear to be very dim.  The 430 look much brighter and closer to the 450nm royal blue level of output.

PAR meters do account for the radiation of LEDs between 400-450nm, but they underestimate it, so the readings require correction.  I believe under 400nm is not considered to be part of the PAR spectrum.  You can see the spectral response of an Apogee sensor on pages 7 and 11 of this document:  http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/content/SQ-100_300manual.pdf

Page 12 shows a table for correcting common spectral errors (under or over readings).



I am in love with my 'UV' LEDs and would like to add more, as well as some more RBs.  Blue and white may grow coral fine, but when thinking in terms of PUR for corals, the range of radiation that they most utilize most is roughly 400-465nm.... food for thought!

 

[Victoss]

It's my opinion that the violet UVs (in the 405-430 range) are important for growth, if you look up charts for phytoplankton photosynthesis spectrums there are a bunch of important spots they cover. I would go as far as saying their just as important as royal blues and definitely more important then whites. Also they make things POP! ;D

I just got my order of LEDs today to add to my existing fixture for when I move over to the 120g. Added 24 more RB, 8 violet UVs and 4 whites. I'll be sure to post a thread when I get around to doing them.