Newbie's New Fusion 40 Build :)

C

Canadianeh

Active Member
I turned on the pump and powerhead now, and put the clearer liquid that came with the live sands.

I am thinking, do I need to put filter floss now? Will they not collecting salt as well?
 
C

Canadianeh

Active Member
Water has cleared up but microbubbles are here. Normal? NO skimmer in the tank. Still have to tidy up on the sand bed.

20161028_063348_zpsswypumig.jpg
 
Dingets

Dingets

Member
Micro bubbles usually mean there's something going on in your sump. Can you post a pic of that? I'm not sure what you meant by filter floss collecting the salt? It's mechanical filtration used for trapping larger bits of detritus and will help with your micro bubbles. It would be similar to using filter socks.


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Painter Steve

Painter Steve

Member
Donor
Keep your water level in the middle chamber just below the baffles. You also might have Air bubbles in that middle chamber as it's like an upside down T. Mine did the same thing for a few days and then worked itself out..
 
C

Canadianeh

Active Member
Dingets said:
Micro bubbles usually mean there's something going on in your sump. Can you post a pic of that? I'm not sure what you meant by filter floss collecting the salt? It's mechanical filtration used for trapping larger bits of detritus and will help with your micro bubbles. It would be similar to using filter socks.


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Click to expand...
Painter Steve said:
Keep your water level in the middle chamber just below the baffles. You also might have Air bubbles in that middle chamber as it's like an upside down T. Mine did the same thing for a few days and then worked itself out..
Click to expand...

I turned off the return pump this morning and just run the powerhead. The powerhead seems to help to release the microbubbles that attached to the surface of rocks, glass, and etc. I can see the microbubbles decrease so much already instantly after I turned off the return pump.

I think it has something to do with the water level in the return pump chamber being too low. I purposely did leave it low to accommodate skimmer (water displacement) that will go into it in less than a week. Only skimmer, return pump, and ATO that I leave it off right now.
 
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C

Canadianeh

Active Member
nathan said:
You did a nice job with the aquascaping bro.... looks great
Click to expand...
Thanks buddy. I am pretty happy about it.

Now I need to tidy up in the wiring section of the cables and power boxes. I am using and on the cabinet compartment dedicated just for cables and power boxes .
 
C

Canadianeh

Active Member
Took water sample to Big Al's today and this is what I got:
Ammonia 0.5 ppm
PH 8.2
nitirite 0 ppm
KH 6
Nitrate 0 ppm
Calcium 17 (340 ppm)
Phospate 0 ppm
 
C

Canadianeh

Active Member
day #4 test

PH = 7.8 (don't know why there is a big difference between Big Al's and mine. I used Idip and Big als used API test kit)

Ammonia = 0.64 ppm (I added 2 ppm = 1 drop per gallon Dr tims ammonia yesterday and it seems is only 0.64 ppm today. Normal?)

Phosphate = too low to read

Total Alkalinity = 3.5 dkh (not sure why is much lower than Fauna Marin's spec which is should be between 8.0-8.5 Any idea?)

Nitrate = 9 ppm
 
Bayinaung

Bayinaung

Member
Great scaping I agree!
I think its great you're dosing Dr.Tim's bacteria along with ammonia to start cycle. If Dr. Tim's doesn't have, I'd add a wee bit of vinegar (carbon) for bacteria as well. Carbon (vinegar, vodka etc) is a known bac food and will help accelerate bacteria growth even early on. In a lot of the expensive and established systems like KZ zeovit, etc their systems have bac and bac food dosing to start and that continues through out the life of the tank. so that's what I did with my nano tank - live rock (which supplies an ecosystem of bac to star) plus drops of vinegar.

I'd add some siporax or matrix into the holding media rack for additional biological filtration capacity as these have much greater capacity to host bacteria per gram vs. dry rock or most types of live rock. I have seen some successful systems that do not have live rock at all and uses siporax and matrix in their place. That's what I'd do to supplement biological capacity and facilitate cycling but what you have got going will work as well. good luck!
 
C

Canadianeh

Active Member
Bayinaung said:
Great scaping I agree!
I think its great you're dosing Dr.Tim's bacteria along with ammonia to start cycle. If Dr. Tim's doesn't have, I'd add a wee bit of vinegar (carbon) for bacteria as well. Carbon (vinegar, vodka etc) is a known bac food and will help accelerate bacteria growth even early on. In a lot of the expensive and established systems like KZ zeovit, etc their systems have bac and bac food dosing to start and that continues through out the life of the tank. so that's what I did with my nano tank - live rock (which supplies an ecosystem of bac to star) plus drops of vinegar.

I'd add some siporax or matrix into the holding media rack for additional biological filtration capacity as these have much greater capacity to host bacteria per gram vs. dry rock or most types of live rock. I have seen some successful systems that do not have live rock at all and uses siporax and matrix in their place. That's what I'd do to supplement biological capacity and facilitate cycling but what you have got going will work as well. good luck!
Click to expand...

I plan to put filter floss on the top of each of the intank media baskets, marco rock rubbles in mesh bag in the middle, and the bottom I am thinking to put Chemipure blue. In chamber #2 is Ghost skimmer, and # 4 I plan to turn it into chaeto refugium with IM Refugium light.
 
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