just to tight. If you need anything let me know. I have 1/8" here.
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Teebone's Epic 210G SPS Build
- Thread starter teebone110
- Start date
just to tight. If you need anything let me know. I have 1/8" here.
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teebone110
Distinguished Member
No worries, I have some 1/8" acrylic left over from my original overflow so it should be fine. What's the best way to cut it to size?
Table saw. Buy a new blade with as many teeth as you can. Home depot sells a two pack, $40. They are blue. I forget the brand. Its what i used when i started before i invested in a couple of proper blades. They dont last long on thick materials, but will do well for a few cuts on 1/8"
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teebone110
Distinguished Member
thanks
I don"t understand you a enlarge trickle and full siphon from 1" to 1.5". It never increase the drain flow when the bulkhead is 1". It only make a overflow box tightly and does not any help a drain flow. if you worry about a drain flow. you should take 1.5" bulkhead for full siphon, and 1" bulkhead for trickle and emergency. If I didn't look wrong, I can't see your full siphon pipe fully under water line.
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JT is the man! Always does the best work.
Build is looking good Tyler, nice attention to details.
Build is looking good Tyler, nice attention to details.
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Yes, I understand your comment about questioning why I would enlarge the drain pipe to 1.5" from a 1" bulkhead. I had the room to make it fit, so I went with the same specs as bean animal's original design. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
I have read different opinions over at reefcentral that the larger diameter pipe may provide optimal benefit due its physics to ensure a silent trickle drain. I have seen several systems that work just fine using 1" drains and bulkheads, but I am going to try it out and see how it goes.
It is nice that I do have the 1.5" emergency drain and my preference would be to keep it as an emergency, as I know it would be able to handle the load in the case of the other drains get blocked. It does provide a good option if I have to change things around and change it to the full siphon. My thoughts are that I would probably have to dial it back with a gate valve to restrict the flow anyways, so thats why I just went with the 1" for the full siphon.
My goal is to get about 2000 gph turn over through my sump, so that should be close to 10x tank water volume.
I figure that a 1" full siphon should theoretically provide 2000 gph on its own, but with a 24 inch drop, it has been said that it is closer to 1500-1600 gph. Combine that with whatever flow goes through the trickle and it should be in the ball park of 2000 gph.
I have a Waveline DC1200 pump that will drive my system, so I should be able to dial things in nicely.
http://www.saltysupply.com/Waveline-DC12000-Internal-External-Pump-w-Controll-p/h2o1171.htm
I know of others who use the Jebao DC12000 which is almost the same pump without any issues achieving this goal, while running various reactors through a manifold, etc.
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Yes, he is the man! I could keep him busy for a while
Thanks for the kind words. I find I'm am getting too anal about things and I should just accept that things aren't going to be perfect and move forward and get this thing wet!
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Big day today! Did the freshwater test to make sure this bad boy will hold water and check my plumbing and functioning of my overflow. I also got to fire up my new Waveline pump
I can say all went well with the exception of my gate valve. It started leaking from the valve, just under the knob. It obviously got worse when i would turn the valve toward the closed position. I took it apart and identified a small o-ring inside that could have been the issue? I reassembled and everything seems fine now. I will let things run for a while and maybe get another as a backup, just in case.
Here are a few pics of the big day!
We've been waiting sooo long to get this thing wet!
I can say all went well with the exception of my gate valve. It started leaking from the valve, just under the knob. It obviously got worse when i would turn the valve toward the closed position. I took it apart and identified a small o-ring inside that could have been the issue? I reassembled and everything seems fine now. I will let things run for a while and maybe get another as a backup, just in case.
Here are a few pics of the big day!
We've been waiting sooo long to get this thing wet!
reefgeek
Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2014
- Location
- Barrie, Ontario
Exciting, isn't it. I see you already have a fan eagerly awaiting that first fish / frag.
saltyair
Member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2014
- Location
- Kingston, Ontario
Following along
curiousphil
Super Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Location
- London, Ontario
Glad you resolved the issue with the valve.
curiousphil
Super Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Location
- London, Ontario
How are things coming along T?
teebone110
Distinguished Member
Completed a full water test and had things rocking with my wave maker and Mp40s, so I think flow isn't going to be an issue at all.
I've been contemplating sump designs and a way to accommodate a separate chamber for water changes that can be incorporated into the full sump volume, then take it off line for draining and mixing NSW. Not sure if I should plumb a separate tank, or just make my sump larger. If it is a separate tank, I will need to identify a way to ensure it drains completely, maybe elevate and use gravity? Don't really want to use any additional pumps. I want to keep everything running from my main return through a manifold.
Decisions-Decisions
I've been contemplating sump designs and a way to accommodate a separate chamber for water changes that can be incorporated into the full sump volume, then take it off line for draining and mixing NSW. Not sure if I should plumb a separate tank, or just make my sump larger. If it is a separate tank, I will need to identify a way to ensure it drains completely, maybe elevate and use gravity? Don't really want to use any additional pumps. I want to keep everything running from my main return through a manifold.
Decisions-Decisions
Having built a few sumps, keep it separate.
Make the sump functional, and smaller if needed to leave room for the extra mixing container.
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Make the sump functional, and smaller if needed to leave room for the extra mixing container.
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curiousphil
Super Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Location
- London, Ontario
Something like the 40 gallon mixing/settling tank Darryl used? Good idea. Looked like it would make water changes a breeze. Drain, fill, mix, reopen valve.Completed a full water test and had things rocking with my wave maker and Mp40s, so I think flow isn't going to be an issue at all.
I've been contemplating sump designs and a way to accommodate a separate chamber for water changes that can be incorporated into the full sump volume, then take it off line for draining and mixing NSW. Not sure if I should plumb a separate tank, or just make my sump larger. If it is a separate tank, I will need to identify a way to ensure it drains completely, maybe elevate and use gravity? Don't really want to use any additional pumps. I want to keep everything running from my main return through a manifold.
Decisions-Decisions
AdInfinitum
Super Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2012
- Location
- Thorndale, Ontario
That's the route I am going I much prefer using a settling area over socks or other physical filtration and making cleaning the settling area automatic with a WC seemed like a great time and effort saver...
On the subject of Darryl's system... The low flow vs high flow sumpb is always an argument that interested me. I am going huge with my new sump and not increasing flow to increase processing/dwell time in the sump. Even though Darryl was not a fuge guy he also was in the slow flow category (around 500gph).
I'd love to hear your thinking on why you are aiming for a high flow through system.
In my sump i turned the refugium into a water changing area of sorts. I let the detritus settle into the fugue and skimmer sections, and periodically I would pump the water out and shop vac out both sections, obviously less often in the skimmer section. It is a great way of doing it over filter socks, etc. echoing what Rob said.
I think it is a good idea and there must be a way to get this done under your tank - gravity will do all the work. I'm not sure how you'll be able to do it all with one pump though, trying to visualize that and it isn't coming to me? Even with the method Phil proposed. Darryl's mixing tank was elevated and in a fish room, which made doing such changes a lot easier in terms of draining, refilling and mixing... I guess you could elevate a separate tank under your sump, plumb it inline, and then have it drain through a valve at the base to a disposal container or hose to a drain... and then have a split from any RO/DI line you have for top up to the change tank and mix it directly in there... you're not going to have a ton of vertical space to work with, but should have lots of run, could work very well in theory.
I think it is a good idea and there must be a way to get this done under your tank - gravity will do all the work. I'm not sure how you'll be able to do it all with one pump though, trying to visualize that and it isn't coming to me? Even with the method Phil proposed. Darryl's mixing tank was elevated and in a fish room, which made doing such changes a lot easier in terms of draining, refilling and mixing... I guess you could elevate a separate tank under your sump, plumb it inline, and then have it drain through a valve at the base to a disposal container or hose to a drain... and then have a split from any RO/DI line you have for top up to the change tank and mix it directly in there... you're not going to have a ton of vertical space to work with, but should have lots of run, could work very well in theory.