Teebone's Epic 210G SPS Build

[teebone110]

Having built a few sumps, keep it separate.

Make the sump functional, and smaller if needed to leave room for the extra mixing container.


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Good recommendation, this is what I think would be best. It would also allow for future expansion or modification if needed.

Something like the 40 gallon mixing/settling tank Darryl used? Good idea. Looked like it would make water changes a breeze. Drain, fill, mix, reopen valve.

exactly my same thought. His water change system was brilliant and I would like to emulate

That's the route I am going I much prefer using a settling area over socks or other physical filtration and making cleaning the settling area automatic with a WC seemed like a great time and effort saver...

On the subject of Darryl's system... The low flow vs high flow sumpb is always an argument that interested me. I am going huge with my new sump and not increasing flow to increase processing/dwell time in the sump. Even though Darryl was not a fuge guy he also was in the slow flow category (around 500gph).

I'd love to hear your thinking on why you are aiming for a high flow through system.

I'm thinking low flow as well. There is really no benefit for a high flow sump. During my wet test, I had my DC pump dialled in about half power and things seemed perfect. My 1 inch full siphon was pinched off at about 50% so the flow was probably between 500-800 gph. I would like to keep it there if possible

In my sump i turned the refugium into a water changing area of sorts. I let the detritus settle into the fugue and skimmer sections, and periodically I would pump the water out and shop vac out both sections, obviously less often in the skimmer section. It is a great way of doing it over filter socks, etc. echoing what Rob said.

I think it is a good idea and there must be a way to get this done under your tank - gravity will do all the work. I'm not sure how you'll be able to do it all with one pump though, trying to visualize that and it isn't coming to me? Even with the method Phil proposed. Darryl's mixing tank was elevated and in a fish room, which made doing such changes a lot easier in terms of draining, refilling and mixing... I guess you could elevate a separate tank under your sump, plumb it inline, and then have it drain through a valve at the base to a disposal container or hose to a drain... and then have a split from any RO/DI line you have for top up to the change tank and mix it directly in there... you're not going to have a ton of vertical space to work with, but should have lots of run, could work very well in theory.

I have about 32 inches of vertical space under my stand so my choices would be limited. I might be able to squeeze an elevated 40 breeder under there, but still need to figure out how to drain it into the main sump. Maybe I could design another overflow, but I don't want anything too complicated adding noise and bubbles etc.

I want to keep things as simple as possible. If I have to add another pump, maybe an MJ1200 would suffice just for the water change and could also function as a mixing pump?

I can easily pump NSW into the sump by other means, but want to keep things EZ-PZ lemon squeezy if I can

 

[curiousphil]

Regarding MJ1200 as a mixing / water change pump... that's what i use for my 90 right now and it's quite slow. I use 2 MJs to mix my salt in a 20 gallon Brute garbage can and then just one to pump into my sump. Wish I had gone with a bigger pump.

 

[jroovers]

Regarding MJ1200 as a mixing / water change pump... that's what i use for my 90 right now and it's quite slow. I use 2 MJs to mix my salt in a 20 gallon Brute garbage can and then just one to pump into my sump. Wish I had gone with a bigger pump.

I agree with you here Phil, something a bit bigger than a maxi jet will be ideal. That is what I used and its just too slow. I'm guessing you are going to be doing water changes that involve changing out 20 to 30 gallons per change, which is a good amount? I think your issue is going to be how to get that last 1 to 2 inches of water out of this separate area - that is where all the gunk is going to be - you almost need it elevated with a bulkhead and drain in the bottom of the tank. Going to be tough to do without incorporating a separate pump but there must be a way to do it. Worth posting in your thread over in RC, someone will be able to help you I'm sure to come up with the best method.

 

[Big_Als_London]

We use Mag 7s at the store in our 50 gallon containers and they work wonderfully.

 

[Bece13]

Following... as I might have a new build in the future...
Nice job so far.

 

[jroovers]

We use Mag 7s at the store in our 50 gallon containers and they work wonderfully.

I've got a Mag 7 Tyler if you end up needing one. I was using as a backup to my Eheim 1262.

 

[teebone110]

Regarding MJ1200 as a mixing / water change pump... that's what i use for my 90 right now and it's quite slow. I use 2 MJs to mix my salt in a 20 gallon Brute garbage can and then just one to pump into my sump. Wish I had gone with a bigger pump.

Good point, no need to mess around with MJs when there are better alternatives

We use Mag 7s at the store in our 50 gallon containers and they work wonderfully.

Cool, I might consider one of these

Following... as I might have a new build in the future...
Nice job so far.

Much thanks, appreciate your feedback

I've got a Mag 7 Tyler if you end up needing one. I was using as a backup to my Eheim 1262.

If I take your pump, then you won't have a back up?

I think you might need it for your new frag tank

 

[jroovers]

If I take your pump, then you won't have a back up?
I think you might need it for your new frag tank

True enough! However, I am thinking though I'm going to need a bigger pump for a tank, sump, and frag tank, so my plan was to get a new pump and then keep the 1262 as my backup.

My house related to do list is getting shorter. I fixed a toilet and redid a shower head last night, I'm getting anxious to plumb something saltwater related! I'll come pay you a visit sooner rather than later.

 

[curiousphil]

I can't wait to see what you two come up with for an aquascape.

I can't remember Tyler, is your rock already cycled? Or did you just cook it in RO water?

 

[spyd]

Here is a pic of my water change tank. It is the one up above my sump just as a plumbing reference. The feeder comes off my manifold and is a very slow flow. For drain line, it's just a 1 1/2" 90 facing upwards and drains down into my sump. Because of the low flow in the tank, it is dead silent and doesn't add any noise to the system. The line that I use to drain out the tank is at the bottom with a 1 1/2" 90 facing down and cut to be about 2 -3 mms off the bottom of the tank. I then have a valve and a hose attached to go straight to floor drain when emptying it. The downturned 90 creates a vacuum and sucks almost all the water. It only leaves about 1/8" at the bottom and I soak that up using a Sham-Wow. lol

Biggest thing to consider is having enough room to access it properly to get salt in there and stirring, etc. A water change tank takes a pile of physical work out of doing a water change. I love it.

 

[teebone110]

Thanks guys, lots of good advice. I will need to measure but I like your plumbing design and the simplicity of use.

 

[teebone110]

Here is my first attempt at creating an island.
I need some recommendations, as i think it might be too boxish.

My overall objective is to create a minimalistic aquascape with two islands with lists of places to position sps and minimize shading.

I don't want to go too high, more like long and low…

Here is a pic of a rough idea, but I think its too heavy..

 

[TORX]

Love the long and low idea.

 

[teebone110]

Love the long and low idea.

Me too

here is a pic I found online with good application of shelf rock and a pukani-like rock

 

[teebone110]

.. and here's a pic of another tank incorporating a good sized piece of shelf rock

 

[jroovers]

I like it. Looks like you'll have lots of space to place SPS pieces where they won't shade each other out and get good light. It does look a little boxish, but over time you'll see less and less of the rock and more of the coral. The coral will fill in more quickly if it gets better light and flow, and I think that island will do that.

 

[teebone110]

Thanks, I am also thinking that the other island will change the overall appearance too. I might start low and build it up higher to the right side with some more plates for overhangs, etc

 

[Jewel]

You weren't kidding when you said you were taking your time with this build? LOL

 

[AdInfinitum]

Are you using anything to secure the rockwork?

Acrylic rod or cement? My recent rescaping using structures made by cementing and pinning natural rockpieces together allowed me to do things that stacking never could and I don't have to worry about it gradually collapsing or being knocked over by fish or my clumsy hands.

Bottom line....I would never go back to just stacks of rock again.

 

[teebone110]

You weren't kidding when you said you were taking your time with this build? LOL

Yes, very slow

Are you using anything to secure the rockwork?

Acrylic rod or cement? My recent rescaping using structures made by cementing and pinning natural rockpieces together allowed me to do things that stacking never could and I don't have to worry about it gradually collapsing or being knocked over by fish or my clumsy hands.

Bottom line....I would never go back to just stacks of rock again.

Couldn't agree more, I don't want things collapsing over time.

At the moment I have an acrylic rod jammed through 3 of the plate rocks into a large a piece of pukani base rock. I want to make sure things are they way I want before I break out the epoxy and superglue. I am also considering drilling a bunch of holes into my rock so I can easily place some custom made frag plugs with coral frags into these to potentially move them around based in their needs for more light or flow as they grow